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Tom's Thumb
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Hot Line 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: Winter, spring and fall
Page Views: 1,043
Submitted By: Tony B on Mar 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Tom Thumb with a climber at the 1st roof of Treibe...

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Description 

An interesting line with some 'interesting' rock, but pretty good overall. The climb has a little of everything and is enjoyable if you don't let a few loose sections bother you. It is safe overall.
Down and right about 5 meters from Treiber's Deception, the trade route of this rock, there are a pair of left-leaning cracks that merge 8 meters up the rock. The thinner one of the two on the left is the beginning of Hot Line. Climb up this to the merge and continue up and left to the terminus of the crack, then climb up into a weird pod and then crank a few meters hard right to a hanging flake and get established in another crack (crux). Protect this and make awkward moves to finish on the final slab above.
Belay up top and then rap to the west. We did this on a single 70M rope, but it was close.

Location 

This route is on the lower part of the East face of Tom's Thumb, just left of a large left-facing dihedral ('Look But Don't Touch', 10b) and right of Treibler's Deception.

Protection 

A standard rack with cams to fist-sized (3.5"). This route meanders a bit and longer slings are good.


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By lou
Feb 12, 2008

Phew.. more like "Hardline" than Hotline. hmmmm.... 10 plus. Strenuous from the get go..all the way up. Awkward in sections...with polished tiny feet. Hangdog lead. Save two BD golds and blues for the upper handcrack. Not many rests. Classic.
By max gibbons
From: AZ y TO
May 7, 2009

Yeah, I'll agree that the climb's safe overall, but unless some--como se dice--grace is used on lead, the belay might not be for long.

But then, anything less and you're an animal I suppose.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Awesome and stout climb! Funny, I've been calling it "Hardline" anyway. Hot Line, huh. It is hot!

Oh, and there's a relatively new (as in sometime in the last few months or so) and very nice chain anchor on top that can be rapped safely with a 60m rope and it brings you to the base of this route.
By Austin Sobotka
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Did this climb some 4 months ago with Manny. Really awesome line (although my memory may be more fond due to the fact that i had always wanted to lead it and somehow got it clean first try). Need to go back and climb it again. Bring doubles of 1's and 2's, possibly triples if you want to sew it up. It's burly.
By KevinD
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Dec 24, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

4 star route for the McDowells. Anchors are poorly placed for cleaning. 70m gets you down. 60 would be a rope stretcher
By Greg Opland
Administrator
Dec 25, 2014

Crusty old guy comment...

I'm kind of curious what you mean by "poorly placed" anchors. You pretty much have to construct your own for this route and belay someone from the top. I was just up there a little over a week ago. You can see the holes where the knucklehead put bolts in at the top so he could (seriously) solo aid-climb this line on top rope.

So this is a build-your-own like it always has been, and belay your second from the top (aka TOPrope). It wasn't that long ago when you had to haul two ropes up to rap off Tom's Thumb because a single 50m rope didn't make it. I really hope that we don't have to have bolted anchors at the top of everything now just so someone can have convenience. Low-impact should still be something we strive for, even if it's a little out of style with respect to climbing now.
By KevinD
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Feb 10, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Didn't mean any harm by my comment. Just wanted to say that if you lower or rap the route to clean it (which we did so we could both lead it) it is difficult to swing over to clean your gear. It is much better done as a leader and follower scenario.
By Greg Opland
Administrator
Feb 12, 2015

No worries Kevin. Just seems like every time I climb Tom's Thumb, there are more bolts pounded into the top. Just sharing some low-impact hope for anyone (reading this) that might be thinking about adding to the heap.
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