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 ADVANCED
Purple Valley
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' S 
A Way of Life S 
Big Crack T 
Burden of Dreams T 
Captain One Eye S 
Coffee Talk S 
Come In Your Lycra S 
Delusions of Grandeur S 
Electric Cowboy S 
Flaring Crack T 
Grunt T 
Hot Licks and Rhetoric T 
Into the Purple Valley T 
It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy T 
Love Shack, The S 
Pebbly Poo T 
Pleasant Surprise T 
Shish-kebab T,TR 
Social Butterfly T 
Unsorted Routes:

Hot Licks and Rhetoric 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: M Hackworth, T. Andriakos, R. Martin, 1986
Season: gets sun
Page Views: 756
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 28, 2006

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Description 

A great climb that deserves more attention. This is one of the better lines at the cliff, and one of the longest if you consider any one of the 3 climbs you have to do just to get to the base of it as part of the route.

Start with "Grunt" for the most consistent start and belay at the base of this line on the ledge if you protected just before the traverse. If you did not protect just before the traverse and put a monster-long sling on your last piece and intend to do the same with your next, you may simply continue...

Climb up the bright orange corner on the available face holds and flake, protecting when possible and as often as possible to account for the possibility of pulling some gear. Continue to a ledge with a belay tree and belay. Alternately, continue to the top over an unprotected roof.

The most recent book documents the FA of the alternate finish to be by Tom Kwasny. Although it is presently undocumented, I believe that his partner on that affair was Eric Pinkston.

Location 

From the approach trail, go left of the first rock you intercept, a huge free-standing spire. Just left of this you will see a mixed (some bolts) route on the vertical flat face of a rounded arete. This face is the route "Till The Cows Come Home." Just left of that route there is a crack in a huge, left-facing corner with a small roof above mid-height and a wide crack above that. This is the route "Grunt." Up and left of Grunt, perhaps 70' off of the ground is a second corner that can be reached via Grunt (most consistent option at 5.8 trad), Tour De Hooks (10d) or Pleasant Surprise (11a).

Protection 

A standard rack including TCUs and tricams, but beware of fragile rock and some flaring spots.


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