How pumpy can a 70' route be anyway? OK, come find out.The climb is a striking, shallow dark, right-facing corner well left on the Fin Wall. This is perhaps 100M right of Crappichino. There is a plaque at the base last I saw.
Climb up from the base and set overhead pro. Move up to a stance with a wider jam, place more overhead pro and then gun for a while in off-size jams or a hard lieback to reach a narrow stance on decent feet 2/3 of the way up. Maybe you placed more pro, or maybe you risked a fall. Arrive exhausted and rest on the foot to the left of the crack, place gear and and then gun up a few more mvevs to a good jam, placing more pro. Go for the awkward finish with a large piece, or perhaps above your gear.
If you can't jam this size, you might not get much gear. Though you can get more, I suspect it's a "4-piece" route for many non-jamming folks unless they hang or are mutants. The anchor is just above the slopey topout and is exciting to get to. Please Rap off instead of lower to avoid beating the rock with your rope. If you set a TR, please consider a long sling or cordalette.
1.5" to 3" extra 1.5 and 2"If you want overhead pro at the top-out, take one wider piece.
|By david goldstein|
Apr 1, 2006
A great pitch. No doubt that it's pumpy, but Tony overstates the case when he indicates that anyone less than superhuman will have difficulty placing more than four pieces. I placed at least three times that many.
People with limited wingspan or fat fingers will probably find the crux to be in the middle, reaching past the section where the crack pinches down; if you want pro above your feet for this section, you will want a piece smaller than 1.5", e.g. red Alien.
|By Ken McVicker|
Mar 31, 2008
The sign is still there. Great route that gets harder up to the crux. Definitely need some small cams be prepared for finger locks and no feet. Once I got past the crux and finger locks I never though a ring lock would feel so good.
|By Michael Sokoloff|
From: Spokane, WA
May 24, 2008
As entertaining and dramatic as the route description, it was very discrepant from my experience. Seemed solid the entire way with a cool thin section in the middle spanning between fingerlocks. Pro was available whenever needed. I placed a total of 9 pieces. Finish was grunty but still fun. This climb offered just about the entire spectrum of jamming sizes. Hand size really makes no difference on this route;no matter what size your hands are, you will have good and bad jams.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2008
Plenty of .75 in this right facing corner. So hard for me. Got schooled on this size this creekend. Glad I finally figured out how to finger stack
From: Golden, CO
Apr 12, 2010
take a #4 camalot for the top...
|By Travis McClinchey|
From: Squamish, BC
Apr 14, 2013
To reiterate... the last ~ 15 to 20 feet is only protectable with BD #4, despite what the guidebook suggests!
May 24, 2013
Four pieces in 70 feet at Indian Creek - on an insecure 5.11. Come on Tony. Perhaps you were bored back the day you put this route up and looking to stir the pot. Climb on my friend.
|By Danie White|
From: SLC, UT
Nov 5, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
Superb route. There's something to challenge everyone on this one--thin hands, wide hands, fingers, technical footwork.
And yes, bring a larger piece than the guidebook says for the top. I got by walking a deeply placed #3.5BD for most of it, and then climbing above it for the last ~body length and I wouldn't call myself bold. A #4 would have been nice.