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Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side
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Hot Fudge 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dave Wonderly & Jack Marshall, December 1986
Page Views: 989
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 12, 2003

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Pocket pulling on Hot Fudge, DQ Wall, Jtree.

Description 

This climb ascends the most obvious pocketed face on the Dairy Queen wall that is not interrupted by cracks. Climb the center of the face as pictured below. A hard crux starts the route (which felt harder than 5.9 to me) but could be avoided if you step right to start and then left after 2-3 meters of climbing. The beginning is big balance moves to a sloper and the rest is running up jugs on reasonably secure holds to the bolt anchor up top.

This route was reminiscent of Southeastern sandstone and seemed out of character for the area in general. It could be a pleasant change of pace for those wanting a break from J-tree edging and smearing.

To descend, rap off on a single rope to the ground.

Protection 

Not much pro - it seemed that it was mostly consisting of slung chickenheads. If this is disconcerting, consider a top-rope. Most of the moves are secure enough to do on runout, but some are reachy and may present more difficulty for shorter climbers.


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By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Apr 7, 2010

This route's name is "A Hot Fudge" in the Vogel guides.
By Tyler Knubs
Sep 29, 2011

the photo is a lie. there is no double bolt rappel. the bolts are gone.
By Canon
Oct 26, 2011

Couldn't find the bolts on top. Ended up walking off toward Lost Horse Road a little pissed off.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Nov 7, 2011

Fun route! I led it, but did not notice/find any chicken heads that would have taken a sling well.

Very moderate with big holds, but quite run out. A fall at or just before getting to the second crack would be a screamer.

No bolts a the top that I could find. Going off the back into Rock Garden Valley is bad news. Scramble down near the right end of the wall I guess?
By Snupe
From: SoCak
Nov 10, 2011

Somebody chopped the anchors; see the section page for walk-off info.
By Daniel Evans
From: Twentynine Palms, CA
Apr 26, 2013

Climbed it today. There was new bolts and rap rings.