Hot Buttered Rump 

This is a pretty intense route, although the protection is good, some small wires help - IF you're willing to do a bit of searching. The edge of Hair Lip can prove useful if you reach back with your right hand. I'd give it 5.10a.

Physical climbing that by it's nature is fairly secure. It's possible to climb this route facing in as well as out.

This climb is INTENSE. My rump is FOR SURE buttered.

The climb is probably 5.8 if you want to stay out at the lip, gets harder as you go in to protect yourself.

HBR makes for a great intro to the bizarre, thrutchy business of technical chimney climbing. Fortunately you can TR this one easily with a top belay by first leading Hair Lip (exciting) and then moving right 10 ft to the rap anchors for HBR.

Just lower your partner down from the top and then enjoy listening to him/her suffer on the way back up (the sound carries REALLY well straight up the chimney to your cushy belay ledge).

Do it this way and you will become VERY familiar with one of the coolest rock features at Suicide.

Protecting this thing was the crux for me. It's easy to lose body tension while fumbling for gear. I found a #3 Camalot to be a crucial piece early in the chimney (when standing on the detached flake). It was a flared, ugly-looking placement--the kind where anything other than a Camalot would probably walk out--but it was better than anything else I could figure out. Further up, I saw some possible small nut placements but decided that it was more efficient to wait for the constrictions where I could quickly plug in a cam. You'll see 'em. Mostly 1/2" to 1" size.

Fantastic route! But you'll never have to wait in a line for this one. TCUs, and small stoppers can be found throughout the chimney section, but the placements are not totally obvious. I'd also have to say that after climbing this route recently for the 4th time, I don't think its any harder than 5.9 The difficulty feels fairly comparable to 5.9 wide stuff in Yosemite Valley.

I also don't think it's necessarily any easier staying on the outside. A little technique goes a long way.

takes tons of pro in the cruxy ow moves down low then grab a good rest on the big flake. hit the outside edge with your right hand and chimney up, takes great gear but reachy on the chimney part

pretty stout 10a

For a sweet continuation after the rap rings walk around right (don't really need to rope this part up, but if you do you'll feel safer). After that head up to two obvious dihedrals (you can see these from the ground). They offer a sweet, but short, climb of great jams (brings you to the top of the rock). 5.8+

^ yessir! we had fun on those lol