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Right of the Escalator
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Axe of God T 
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Breeze, The T 
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Hot Buttered Rump T 
Jackal, The T 
Mad Dogs and Edgingmen T 
Philocetes' Bow T 
Poppycock Arch T 
Shadow, The T 

Hot Buttered Rump 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Charlie Raymond and Larry Harrell, April 1968
Page Views: 2,231
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Looking straight down at John Learned on Hot Butte...

Description 

Not everyone will like this route, but it is a clean, high quality chimney that demands a lot of technique. It is very obvious - a huge, strongly flared, right-facing corner. You can stay in the back of the chimney for good protection or move outside for fun wide stemming moves (perhaps more appropriate when following). This route is in shade most of the day.

Protection 

wired nuts (mostly) and a few larger pieces


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 22, 2014
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Feb 24, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a pretty intense route, although the protection is good, some small wires help - IF you're willing to do a bit of searching. The edge of Hair Lip can prove useful if you reach back with your right hand. I'd give it 5.10a.
By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Physical climbing that by it's nature is fairly secure. It's possible to climb this route facing in as well as out.
By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

This climb is INTENSE. My rump is FOR SURE buttered.
By usetob
From: Visalia, Ca.
May 5, 2008

The climb is probably 5.8 if you want to stay out at the lip, gets harder as you go in to protect yourself.
By Jeff Dunbar
From: Carrboro, NC
Aug 10, 2009

HBR makes for a great intro to the bizarre, thrutchy business of technical chimney climbing. Fortunately you can TR this one easily with a top belay by first leading Hair Lip (exciting) and then moving right 10 ft to the rap anchors for HBR.

Just lower your partner down from the top and then enjoy listening to him/her suffer on the way back up (the sound carries REALLY well straight up the chimney to your cushy belay ledge).

Do it this way and you will become VERY familiar with one of the coolest rock features at Suicide.
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 3, 2009

Protecting this thing was the crux for me. It's easy to lose body tension while fumbling for gear. I found a #3 Camalot to be a crucial piece early in the chimney (when standing on the detached flake). It was a flared, ugly-looking placement--the kind where anything other than a Camalot would probably walk out--but it was better than anything else I could figure out. Further up, I saw some possible small nut placements but decided that it was more efficient to wait for the constrictions where I could quickly plug in a cam. You'll see 'em. Mostly 1/2" to 1" size.
By Nick Barczak
Jun 23, 2010

Fantastic route! But you'll never have to wait in a line for this one. TCUs, and small stoppers can be found throughout the chimney section, but the placements are not totally obvious. I'd also have to say that after climbing this route recently for the 4th time, I don't think its any harder than 5.9 The difficulty feels fairly comparable to 5.9 wide stuff in Yosemite Valley.

I also don't think it's necessarily any easier staying on the outside. A little technique goes a long way.
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

takes tons of pro in the cruxy ow moves down low then grab a good rest on the big flake. hit the outside edge with your right hand and chimney up, takes great gear but reachy on the chimney part
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

pretty stout 10a
By Pfeifer
Jun 29, 2012

For a sweet continuation after the rap rings walk around right (don't really need to rope this part up, but if you do you'll feel safer). After that head up to two obvious dihedrals (you can see these from the ground). They offer a sweet, but short, climb of great jams (brings you to the top of the rock). 5.8+
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jun 30, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

^ yessir! we had fun on those lol
By Phil Esra
May 31, 2013

The climbing itself is really not that hard. Compared to your usual sandbagged wide climb, I'd call the 10a rating a little soft. There's a longish section after a loose flake, though, where the pro is tiny nuts and/or tiny offset cams in fiddly flaring placements. Easy for your legs to pump out while you're fumbling with your bodyweight-only pro. Wished I had offset brassies; ended up opposing a #2 or #3 BD nut to an upside down mastercam, followed by a yellow (smallest) DMM offset nut. Probably should have just climbed through.
By Tradoholic
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pick your poison. Start facing out and then convert to the lip for a wild ride or go face in for a suffer-fest. I was forced to run it out going the face out route, but it was fun!