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Unsorted Routes:

Hostile Crankover 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Mark VanHorn?
Page Views: 983
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Nov 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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The next move is the crux.

Description 

This is the cool roof route located between Aspiring Frog and Energy before Ecstasy. Take the trail to the Surreal Estate Wall, and walk left a minute or so. The route goes through an obvious roof.

Climb the face past a couple bolts to the roof. There is a bolt right in the middle of the roof - clip it and crank. Just remember that an 11 this steep has to have jugs, and go for it. Make sure you're warmed up or you'll end up like me and with a wicked flash pump. Be careful as a couple of the pockets may be sharp - my partner sliced his hand pretty badly. Above the roof, work your way up the face to the anchor and glory.

Protection 

Standard Shelf Road rack (QDs).


Photos of Hostile Crankover Slideshow Add Photo
Jason Williams cranking into the crux move.
Jason Williams cranking into the crux move.
Aaron Branch working the crank part of the overhan...
Aaron Branch working the crank part of the overhan...
Hostile Crankover as seen from the base of the rou...
BETA PHOTO: Hostile Crankover as seen from the base of the rou...

Comments on Hostile Crankover Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jesse Ryan
Mar 31, 2003

A super fun line, 3 stars in my book, but an easy tick at 11c. All but one or two committing moves felt like 5.10+ or less.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Dec 23, 2008

First ascent is by Mark VanHorn.
By D Sharp
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 30, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

It's a jug-fest to the roof, but be careful as it's fairly sandy and the 1st bolt is high. But if you are on this route, I can't see how that part would be a problem, it's 5.9 at best. The roof itself is very fun to pull, but the difficulties will only begin in earnest on the headwall.

The grading seemed a bit off to me: I can see how it's a 11c going straight up hugging the bolts. Although the crux is short, it's definitely as hard as Staying Power or Thunder, if not harder. But judging from the obnoxious amount of chalk, almost everyone seems to bail to the right. That way it's 11-, or if you go far enough, maybe even easier.