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 ADVANCED
Hospital Rock Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Bobino, The T 
Bobino Direct, The T 
Cave Boulder- South Face  TR 
Coyote Ugly TR 
Dangleberry Crack T 
Fat Darrell Sandwich 
Hassle Hoffwidth, The T 
Holus-Bolus T 
Juicifer T 
Ledger's Bulge T 
Lunch Bucket Ledge T 
Lunch Lady Land T 
Middle Way, The T 
Player's Piano 
SARS And Stripes Forever T 
Stairway T 
Timber Tantrum T 
Try-Angles Wall T 
Willowwacks Crack T 
Unsorted Routes:

Hospital Rock Area  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,700'
Location: 36.5205, -118.7735 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,785
Administrators: M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Benjamin F on Oct 18, 2011
Forecast:
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Description 

The local quartzite playground. Despite being about 45 minutes from Visalia/Exeter with an easy approach, it's likely you'll be the only climbers at the crag.
The more it's cleaned up over the years, the better it's become. There is a lot of potential here.

The climbing here is mostly short (1-3 pitches) gear routes, quite varied in difficulty, and most of it can be top roped.
Although not abundant, more difficult routes and projects have definitely been found
As the area develops, some harder grades will undoubtedly spring up.

Good to keep in mind as a plan B for when the weather on Moro turns ugly, but there is enough climbing to fill a day here. The weather is tolerable pretty much all year, it's never really crowded, easily accessible, and only a short walking distance to bathrooms and picnic tables. Excellent spot for an afternoon of climbing, swimming, and barbecuing.

Bears, mosquitoes, poison oak, ticks, rattlesnakes, rock fall, and a raging river are all potential hazards here, so take the same precautions you would at any developing climbing area, and keep yourself and others safe.

Camping can be found nearby at Buckeye Flats from spring to fall, or Potwisha campgrounds back toward the 198 entrance. Check at the entrance for availability or call the visitors center.

(Quick note: The names given to all the routes are arbitrary and purely for informing anyone curious about what the area has to offer. Although I've searched far and wide, original FA information is basically non-existent. If anyone has information, or had names for the lines from decades past, please comment and I'll update them. Enjoy and respect the area, and if you come across something worth climbing, please share.)

Getting There 

From Visalia/Three Rivers, take the 198 up through the park entrance. Only a short distance (~5 miles) from there to the Hospital Rock parking lot. Look for the sign, hard to miss.

There is a decent climber's trail breaking off of the Middle Fork Trail (north-west of the parking lot). Hug the base of the cliff to avoid various trails to nowhere.

Note: The turnout the SEKI guidebook refers to can only accommodate 1-2 vehicles, and the approach directly up the hill is steep and through some nasty weeds.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.2 miles from here

19 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hospital Rock Area:
Lunch Bucket Ledge   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Browse More Classics in Hospital Rock Area

Featured Route For Hospital Rock Area
The Hassle Hoffwidth

The Hassle Hoffwidth 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Hospital Rock Area
The premiere line on the rarely visited "Willowwacks Wall". Would be 3-stars if it had a nice trail and better anchors.Whether the hassle of the approach is worth the pay off is up to you, but this chimney/off-width/hand/finger crack formed by an overhung dihedral is among the cleanest routes on the quartzite formations.P1 (optional) 5.6 : Very short...hand crack with good face holds. Top out and move to the left around the boulder to set up a gear belay. Unrope and walk about 20 feet or so to ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Hospital Rock Area Slideshow Add Photo
Hospital Rock main wall.  Large photo, zoom in.  Lunch Bucket Ledge is one of the few distinct recorded lines on this rock (with bolted anchors).  Just pick a line and climb!
BETA PHOTO: Hospital Rock main wall. Large photo, zoom in. L...
The north-west corner of the Upper Lunchbox. If someone could rig a creative top rope, I've always thought this would be a cool project. The last 10 feet or so of the face looks nearly impossible...(for me anyways)
The north-west corner of the Upper Lunchbox. If so...
December 2011, the base of the Lower Lunchbox, just after the climbers trail breaks off of the Middle Fork Trail.
December 2011, the base of the Lower Lunchbox, jus...
The quartzite formations in the late afternoon, taken from a few miles up the highway.
The quartzite formations in the late afternoon, ta...
Looking down at the start of the second pitch from the top of Lunch Bucket Ledge on hospital rock.  Park in the turnout past the hospital rock parking lot to access this area
Looking down at the start of the second pitch from...
Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any hangs, November 2011
Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any...
A south view from the three bolt anchor on the Upper Lunchbox.  A little technical at the start on the south tip, barely 5th class, if at all, but plenty of places for gear. A good first lead for a timid beginner.
A south view from the three bolt anchor on the Upp...
Lunchbox Ledge, Hospital Rock Area, Sequoia NP CA
BETA PHOTO: Lunchbox Ledge, Hospital Rock Area, Sequoia NP CA
second pitch of lunch bucket ledge
second pitch of lunch bucket ledge

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