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Hoser's Highway 

WI5 PG13

   
Type:  Ice, 4 pitches, 900', Grade IV
Consensus: WI5 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,299
Submitted By: IanA on Dec 4, 2009

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Pillar.

Description 

Northern most climb on Peak 13,419. Climbers left of Stairway to Heaven. Route follows two parallel gullies, the right one is slightly more difficult than the left. Left gully's crux is a thin pillar midway up the route while the right gully's crux comes higher up near the top. Climb normally consists of four steep sections of ice with minimal slogging in between. Early season if ice has not fully fill in, you could experience a small section of mixed.

Descend by walking off to the left. Good route finding is advised or rap the route on v-threads.


Location 

This is to the left of Stairway to Heaven.

Two options exist:

Option 1: Approach the same as Stairway Heaven but head up and left crossing on a snow slope with a small grove of aspens. Drop in to gully directly below climb and wallow up to the obvious start of the ice. Long but not as steep as option 2.

Option 2: Walk up road till you are directly below climb. Cross river on the avalanche debris pile and wallow up the gully to the base of the climb. Recommended (check avy conditions before you do this)


Protection 

Screws (a variety of sizes), some rock pro might be handy.



Photos of Hoser's Highway Slideshow Add Photo
Mixed pitch.
Mixed pitch.
Hoser Highway  not showing the approach.
BETA PHOTO: Hoser Highway not showing the approach.
P. 1.
P. 1.
Last pitch.
Last pitch.
Pitch after pillar.
Pitch after pillar.
Approaching the pillar (photo by Dan Hughes).
Approaching the pillar (photo by Dan Hughes).
Comments on Hoser's Highway Add Comment
Show which comments
By C. Trimble
Nov 23, 2010

Not sure why you would want to approach from STH. Just solo up the approach ice in the obvious gully. We installed a new rock anchor at the top of the last pitch (off right, black webbing). Straighforward descent with v-threads & downclimbing. This is an amazing climb, it should be climbed more. Good when every other route has a line....