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This is yet another long, unknown mystery gully in Eureka with lots of steep snow wallowing and easy ice, with three distinct pitches.
The first one is an obvious, short, sunny pillar (it was sun-rotted & detached, so we bypassed it via an interesting, loose mixed pitch to the right).
The second pitch climbs a buttery-blue short steep step to the upper gully.
Slog/solo up the long upper gully to the headwall pitch, a beautiful thin runnel that we climbed on the right side to top out.
This route has lots of snow-wallowing (extremely dangerous in bad snow conditions), wild position, very alpine feel. I have no idea what it's called, "HH Righthand" is just a guess.
This is located between Hoser's Highway and Stairway to Heaven, roughly above "the on ramp" slab ice. We approached just right of Hoser's then slogged up and right to gain the gully.
Ice screws (bring stubbies), rock gear, slings for the descent. We did 5 rappels off tress/rock spikes looker's right of the gully.
Pete Tschannen climbing around the sun-rotted firs...
Slogging up to the last pitch.
|By Ben Collett|
Jan 1, 2012
My recollection is that passing the first step on the left is only marginally chossy.