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Moldy Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cul de Sac Exit T 
Cul-de-Sac T 
Fibula Cracks TR 
Fungus TR 
Hales Corner TR 
Horticulture T,TR 
Lichen T 
Lichen Planus TR 
Mother of Pearl T 
Nine-Minus T,TR 
Roofus T,TR 
Tibia Crack T,TR 
Verticulture T,TR 


YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Old School
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on May 5, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Go right underneath the overhangs. You can traver...


A classic maneuver: climb up to the roof, then traverse on holds below the roof until you have "escaped" to the right.

There are three possible starts: back in the dihedral that heads straight up to the large roof, up the little pillar just to the right of the dihedral, or up the wide crack that begins near "Tiba". The prettiest climbing and surprisingly the best protection is found on the pillar (several cracks are hidden from view).

Stop just below the top for the best anchor.

After a rain the upper part of this climb may have a film of fine dirt, because the overlook at the top is devoid of vegetation. The key holds are easily brushed clean as you go.


Left of "Tibia" and "Cul-de-sac".


Gear to 2 inches. Something wide if you choose the right-hand start.

Photos of Horticulture Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Horticulture climbs right at the roof, Roofus clim...
BETA PHOTO: Horticulture climbs right at the roof, Roofus clim...

Comments on Horticulture Add Comment
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By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Aug 23, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Horticulture is kind of heinous up high - suspect rock and questionable pro combine to make it interesting. Definitely not a lead for the 5.4 leader...
By Doug Hemken
Aug 25, 2015

I think the quality of the pro depends on how closely you hug the roof: the conundrum is better pro and (slightly) harder moves, or easier moves and little good pro.

I would characterize this as an intermediate leading problem at a low gymnastic level. Not a great first lead, but a good 5.4 to lead.

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