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Routes in 10: Moldy Buttress
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Cul de Sac Exit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Cul-de-Sac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eleven-Minus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fibula Cracks TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fungus TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hales Corner TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Horticulture T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lichen T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Lichen Planus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mother of Pearl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nine-Minus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roofus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tibia Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Verticulture T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Old School |
| Page Views: | 944 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Doug Hemken on May 5, 2011 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
A classic maneuver: climb up to the roof, then traverse on holds below the roof until you have "escaped" to the right.
There are three possible starts: back in the dihedral that heads straight up to the large roof, up the little pillar just to the right of the dihedral, or up the wide crack that begins near "Tiba". The prettiest climbing and surprisingly the best protection is found on the pillar (several cracks are hidden from view).
Stop just below the top for the best anchor.
After a rain the upper part of this climb may have a film of fine dirt, because the overlook at the top is devoid of vegetation. The key holds are easily brushed clean as you go.
There are three possible starts: back in the dihedral that heads straight up to the large roof, up the little pillar just to the right of the dihedral, or up the wide crack that begins near "Tiba". The prettiest climbing and surprisingly the best protection is found on the pillar (several cracks are hidden from view).
Stop just below the top for the best anchor.
After a rain the upper part of this climb may have a film of fine dirt, because the overlook at the top is devoid of vegetation. The key holds are easily brushed clean as you go.
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