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Horseshoe Canyon Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Horseshoe Canyon

L › R R › L A › Z

	Animal Style S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
	Bizatch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Climbers Beware S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
	Comfortably Dumb S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Creepshow S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Diagon Alley S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Human Oddity S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Phantom of the Opera S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Uncomfortably Dumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Vacavillain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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Elevation:	934 ft
GPS:	38.91522, -121.01422 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	43,981 total · 170/month
Shared By:	Aron Quiter on Jan 20, 2003 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.

Description

Horseshoe Canyon currently contains some of the tougher climbing in the Auburn Cliffs area, with routes up to 5.12c. This area is still very much under development, with new routes going up every once in a while.

The right side of Horseshoe Canyon itself is over 200 feet in height, though most of the current routes don't go any further than 75.

All existing routes in Horseshoe Canyon are bolted, though one climb should definitely be backed up with protection, as the bolts are not good.

Getting There

Estimated apporach time from the parking lot: 21 minutes.

From the entrance to the Auburn Cliffs Valley, head past the Memorial Wall and Scale wall into the first canyon on the left. This is horseshoe Canyon.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Horseshoe Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 132 ● Comfortably Dumb Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 193 ● Uncomfortably Dumb Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 118 ● Vacavillain Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 39 ● Phantom of the Opera Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 62 ● Human Oddity Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a 29 ● Animal Style Sport