Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 7,607 ft
GPS: 40.43698, -105.31733
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,837 total · 151/month
Shared By: s.kimball on Mar 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.? DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This prominent 250 foot spire on the west flank of the Palisades can be seen for miles from Drake and the eastern plains. It is quite an adventure just to arrive at its base. Best approach is from Cedar Park. Take FR128 past Combat Rock into Cedar Park proper, eventually making 2 rights onto Snowtop Dr. Park at an end pullout across from a Forest Service access with views of Cedar Park Slab to the north and within a few steps to the south, a stunning panorama of both the Front Range and the Big Thomson Canyon below.

Getting There Suggest change

Get you bearings, where from the plateau top you can see the pyramidal Horseshead due east. No trail exists and it is very rugged, but one must walk east across the plateau, cross a deep draw (drop down) then negotiate a barrier of rock walls (some 4th class) before thromping up a steep gully that leads to a ramp at the west toe of the Horseshead. Allow 1 hour if the path of least resistance is followed.

Per climber76: Take Storm Mountain past past Combat Rock until the "T". Take a right. Drive about 1/4 mile, passing 2 bear statues on pedestals. Take a right on Snowtop Drive. On my odometer, I went between 1.0 and 1.1 miles to a left turnoff. It is marked by a prominent "No Trespassing" sign (every part of the road, parking, approach, and climb is unequivocally on public land). Drive up about 50 yards to the forest service entrance. Walk straight down the double track for perhaps 1/4 mile. Shortly after passing a 6 foot diameter boulder in the middle of the road, you will note a sapling with a large cairn. Walk straight east on a faint trail. The route finding crux is staying on the contour on slightly rocky ground. At the ridge, trend left on some rocky ground as you drop down the dirty hillside. Watch for cairns, and head somewhat left at the bottom before crossing the talus. Cross the talus, and find more cairns before proceeding across another patch of forest and rock rib. Head up the next gully. It is all marked by cairns. Any deviation from the trail will put you in 4th class hell. The elevation gain and loss is the same coming and going.

With the trail improvements, the approach may take as little as 30 minutes.

Per Nat T.: when you get to the little sapling that has a big cairn in front of it, go right down the hill in between two pine trees. DO NOT continue on the trail up the hill to your left. The trail is faint at times but is pretty well-marked with cairns

21 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Horseshead Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Horseshead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
Charlie Horse
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Dé - Stud Pony
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 14
Glue Factory
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Ponyboy Arete
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Sea Biscuit
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 26
Neighsayer
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Kentucky Derby
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 9
Breeder's Cup
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Funky Gold Patina
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Eagle's Beak
Trad 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 10
TDS
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Pokey's Arete
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Charlie Horse
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Dé - Stud Pony
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Glue Factory
 14
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Ponyboy Arete
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sea Biscuit
 8
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Neighsayer
 26
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Kentucky Derby
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Breeder's Cup
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Funky Gold Patina
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Eagle's Beak
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
TDS
 10
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Pokey's Arete
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Horseshead »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading