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Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Nathan Brown, Wes Calkins, Daryl Macinnes
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: nbrown on Jul 28, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Bottom half "topo"
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  • Description 

    This is an excellent new route on the Apricot Buttress that finally came to fruition this year, probably 15 years after I first looked at it (and had forgotten about it). Thanks to Wes for bringing it back to my attention this summer. This rig is well worth the short hike down from the Chimneys.

    This route can be easily approached by rapping directly down from the top with one 60 meter rope to the fixed nut anchor, and then one more to the bottom. The annoying bushes at the bottom actually are helpful to keep the ropes out of the wet gully and dry. The first rap is from a large rock horn located just over the edge near the large tree at the overlook - see picture.

    P-1
    Start in the obvious left diagonaling line near the bottom of the gully (right of spectre man). A bouldery start gains the moderate crack feature which leads to a couple bolts on the arete. A technical and powerful crux gives way to some overlapping features and a chance for a kneebar rest. Place a small cam/nut here. Continue up and right on the overhanging wall past 2 more bolts and a 5 foot roof. Crank this (protected by a fixed stopper at the lip) and continue up to a fixed nut anchor about 15 feet above.

    P-2
    Either climb the easy face out or lower.

    Note: The starting gully is often wet. If so, plan on stacking and hanging the rope to keep it up and out of the water and you'll be good to go. Also, we placed a couple of rocks on the starting ledge that serve as a dry place to start.


    Location 

    On the steep wall at the bottom of the Apricot gully.


    Protection 

    light rack up to #.75 size camelot, 4 bolts and fixed stopper



    Photos of Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades Slideshow Add Photo
    "Rest"
    "Rest"
    Daryl in the crux
    Daryl in the crux
    Wes gettin' it done up high near the roof
    Wes gettin' it done up high near the roof
    Rap anchor at top.  At the end of overlook and at the bonsai like tree, look over edge to left.  This will put you out exactly 95' to the nut anchor.  Just retrieve it at the end of the day right next to your packs.
    BETA PHOTO: Rap anchor at top. At the end of overlook and at ...
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