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DescriptionHorse Rampart is located southeast of the electric fence above a large talus field. The area contains a plethora of moderate routes including the challenging Roger's Roof (5.8). The routes here are fairly long and the area at the base of the climbs is very comfortable. Any moderate climber should be able to find a climb that suits them from the 20 or so moderate climbs found here. There are also a handful of more challenging climbs here, including Between the Sheets (5.12c) and Ptolemy (5.11a). Getting ThereTo find the Horse Rampart walk north on the railroad tracks from the South Shore parking lot until you get to the electric fence. Duck under the fence and walk up along the Birthday Rocks wall. Go south and east around the Caesarian Tower at the southeast end of the Birthday Rocks and head up the bluff and slightly right along the climber's trail (the more direct and treacherous route is to scramble up the talus slope south of the electric fence). About 200 feet up the bluff you will see the southeast end of the 200 ft long Horse Rampart wall. The majority of the climbs are located near the middle of the wall. The wall terminates at Teetering Tower, a narrow 40 ft tower that leans in towards the wall. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Horse Rampart:
The Horse 5.4 Trad, TR
Primak's Surprise 5.6 Trad, TR
Pullman Car 5.7 Trad, TR
Via Apia 5.7 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Debauchery 5.8 TR
Mother Smucker's Jam 5.8 Trad, TR
Peanut Butter 5.8 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Roger's Roof 5.8 Trad, TR
Lechery 5.8 Trad, TR
Mung 5.9 Trad, 70 feet
Plethora 5.10d Trad
Woger's Woof Wightside 5.11c TR
Featured Route For Horse Rampart
Woger's Woof Wightside 5.11c WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Horse Rampart
Woger's Woof Wightside is a very tough face climb over the sizeable roof halfway up the wall. To start, either climb up the lower half of Roger's Roof (the rib to the right of the alcove) or climb up out of the alcove itself. Once up to the overhang position yourself to the right of the handcrack in Roger's Roof. Use small fingerholds to pull yourself up past the roof. Continue to the top with challenging face moves....[more] Browse More Classics in WI
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