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 ADVANCED
Horse Gulch

Select Route:
Horse Rides, Left and Right T 
Petra's Wild Ride T 
Sabine's Magical Mystery Tour T 

Horse Gulch  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.2633, -107.8706 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,059
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matthias Holladay on Oct 26, 2007
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Description 

Two small cliffs on either side of the entrance of Horse Gulch have friable rock, which once cleaned, yield enjoyable and dynamic climbing. The 40 foot cliff on the right has two leads with two more further up-creek. While there's a lot of fun TRs on the left cliff and high-ball boulder problems up blasted rock further down, the testpiece is an aid line from the graffiti up & out roofs to a ledge & dihedral to top out.

Getting There 

There is a 10 minute approach from the parking lot to the climbs for either the left or right side of the gulch.

For the right side: go right across the parking lot to the trail up the hill. Where it levels out, go left and up to a rock shelf to gain the larger trail. Follow this to the first utility pole, then go left through the trees and drop down to the base of the cliff.

For the left side: follow left ridgeline trail to shelves of rock, and traverse hillside to base of climbs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.5 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',3],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Horse Gulch
Looking up route.

Sabine's Magical Mystery Tour 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Durango : Horse Gulch
Shares the same start with Petra's Wild Ride, but traverse L at ledge. (Alternately, flake and mantle on the left lead to ledge.) From here, aesthetic moves up a crack, then R on jugs and over bulge to anchor. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Horse Gulch Slideshow Add Photo
Lots of potential....
Lots of potential....
Nice.
Nice.
Nice line.
Nice line.
Fun.
Fun.
Good.
Good.
Fun Little Quarry Problem.
Fun Little Quarry Problem.
These are nice, short leads.
These are nice, short leads.
Boulder above the meadow.
Boulder above the meadow.
Scenic.
Scenic.
Hmmm....
Hmmm....
Featured.
Featured.
Ahh.
Ahh.
Crazy position climbing out flare / crack roof.
Crazy position climbing out flare / crack roof.
O.K.
O.K.
The left side of Horse Arete.
The left side of Horse Arete.
Well....
Well....
Ooh, crazy moves out the roof flare.
Ooh, crazy moves out the roof flare.
More....
More....
Fun.
Fun.
Oh yeah.
Oh yeah.
Hard.
Hard.
Scenic.
Scenic.
Nice traverse here.
Nice traverse here.
Nice Diagonal.
Nice Diagonal.

Show All 29 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Horse Gulch Add Comment
Show which comments
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Dec 11, 2007
A hundred feet or so up the trail, at the sharp left turn, there is a roof-crack boulder problem on the left. It may be complete junk, as I have never tried it (muddy/shale landing), but it looked kinda fun....
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Jun 7, 2010
Not recommended unless you enjoy short ledgy choss. Much better for mountain biking or hobo camping.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Jun 30, 2010
Short with choss, but someone else please lead Sabine's Magical Mystery Tour and tell me this is a "ledgy" route.
By Jaaron Mankins
From: Bayfield, CO
Sep 12, 2010
I totally agree with the chosspector here, Horse Gulch used to be renowned for keggers and 4-wheelin' back in the early '90s-before the gates went up.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 15, 2010
O.K.-- It's true, I do have a thing for choss, short or long, ledgy or overhung, it doesn't matter where, I'll try it.... As far as what this place is best for -- qué será, será!
By Jaaron Mankins
From: Bayfield, CO
Sep 21, 2010
I respect a man with a healthy choss affinity.
By smassey
From: CO
Dec 10, 2010
Matthias, I'd rather be climbing the choss you put up than doing the umpteenth lap on socially acceptable choss at The Golf Wall. Funny how choss is a matter of perspective. The guidebook to Rifle starts out with saying "Rifle is truly a pile", or something to that effect. To all the haters: If you don't like choss, leave the San Juans - you're out of your element; go sport climbing somewhere. If you don't mind a little adventure, enjoy it for what it is.

BTW, thanks for posting all the pix of you and Joel getting after it. It's a slice of Dgo history.

If someone posts pix of anyone riding down the horse gulch cliffs, I will be impressed....