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Fortress Wall
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American Crack T 
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Fading Memory T 
Get Outta My Way T 
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Where Lizards Dare T 

Horny Bitch 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: B. Molzon, D. Shori, Nov. 1977
Page Views: 1,068
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 14, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Yummy!

Description 

A good climb with mostly good gear, but a few tricky spots getting around bulges. In 1990 my climbing partner managed to fall with his foot tangled in the rope on lead. After I carried him out over my shoulder, we took a trip to the hospital to treat his concussion and to get stitches in his back where a "chunk" had been torn out. Needless to say, when I later led this route it was with some anticipation and fear, though it turned out to be unwarranted.

To climb this route, scramble up a few moves to reach a bit of a ledge at the base of the main corner. Place good protection and start off on a series of sequences and rests. The key is to go when the going is good and stop to place at the rest stances on jams, stems, and good ledges. Continue up past each ledge encountered to the top of the corner system and then left on the final ledge to the crack on the left side. Belay from a tree on top.

While there are a few ledges with trees (and rap stations with slings), proper use of slings make this good as a single long pitch.

To descend, make a single rap on 2 ropes, or rap the route in reverse, stopping at belays as necessary on the way down. Unless something has changed, I believe it is 2 raps with a 60M but a 50M rope may require 3.

Location 

On the far right end of the Fortress wall, perhaps 100 feet from the NE corner of the inside of the amphitheatre, there is a very large corner with a few bulges in it. The cracks and corner are the climb "Horny Bitch."

Protection 

A standard rack to 3".


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By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Nov 14, 2006

Someone once characterized this route to me as:

"V0- to rest. V0- to rest. V0- to rest, etc." And that seems to be the case.

When I led this initially I was out of appropriate gear at the belay ledge and had a very shoddy anchor (I was unwilling to belay from rhodo that was rooted at the edge of the ledge). When my second got to the last piece of gear, just under the crux moves at the end of the first pitch, I told him, "Chris (Arvin), after you pull that piece...absolutely, DO NOT FALL!"

His eyes were the size of a #11 Hex, but he didn't fall and I immediately stripped him of the appropriate gear for a solid anchor.

You can also walk left (west) and rappel from the top of Bedtime for Bonzo with one rope.