Horn's Mother 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | FFA: D. McClure & M, Hesse, 73 (J. Horn '65 with aid), |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on May 1, 2001 |
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Description Horn's Mother is the overhanging, leaning, off-fist crack to the right of Edward's Crack on the Coke Bottle, of Walt's Wall. It is shaded in the Walt's Wall photo, attached.
The route is a must for lover's of off-width, but it will abuse the wide-crack virgins. The two guys that followed me loved it, but they lost both Pride and blood on the route. From the first belay, one can walk two #4 Camalots up the crack for 40' or so with an occasional rest until the crack begins to taper down. Be prepared to overheat on the strenuous climb. People with small hands may find the climb hard at its grade. People with large hands might find it easier.
Protection The crux is 10-15 feet from the ground pulling out of a small roof/overhang a few moves above a 3-4" cam. 25-30' up there is a fixed belay. From there, the pro goes to #4 Camalots for 40 feet, until the crack begins to taper down, gradually narrowing to 2 inches at the top. Fixed anchors are at the top and a 70m rope will get you down with minimal effort. A single 50m can be used if you make 2 rappels onto Walt's Wall.
Stuck?
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Mark Jenkins battling with Horn's Mother.
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Unknown climber on Horn's mother.
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I was just a tasty snack for this hungry beast.
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Climbers on the second pitch.
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Keen Butterworth stroking the Horn's Mother.
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Horn's Mother... she's a beaut!
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After The Storm.
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So many feet on the Horn's Mother....photo of Bret...
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Photo by Wade David.
www.wadedavid.com/
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Dan getting the OS!
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Horn's Mother.
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| Comments on Horn's Mother |
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By Erik Corkran
Aug 7, 2001
| This is a great route, crux is tough (thanks Tony for leading it after I fell off a few times). 2nd pitch very sustained also. |
By Mike Bentley
Aug 16, 2001
| What? Who designed this page, Horns is on the Coke Bottle not Walt's wall. Minor detail I know, but with a decent guide book around, at least the route locations should be correct. It is however a great route. |
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 10, 2002
| I also walked a couple large cams up what would be the second pitch. This created some problems for my second. In a fall, he would have swung left onto Walt's Wall with no possible way to get back on route. I pity the foo' who has to lower, and climb that nasty crux again. |
By Chad Stebbins
Aug 9, 2004
| "but lost both Pride and blood on the route" - I resemble that comment. This route is very sustained and requires a tremendous outlay of energy. The first short pitch may be a bit of a sandbag, but I'm a relative fist crack newb. |
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Oct 1, 2006
| I was the "foo" who had to lower and climb that nasty crux again, and again, and again... |
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 4, 2007
rating: 5.11a
| I would agree that this is a possible sandbag (unless you have huge hands like Bob S.). At the crux I had to shove my whole arm in the crack to get a fist jam, but was only able to get one arm in at a time which made upward progress a little problematic. |
By Squatting Bear
Aug 14, 2008
| I didn't see a fixed anchor either and used #1 cams and #3 cams to build one. I would also add that rapping from the chains atop 4th July crack with a 70 meter rope won't get you down with minimal effort. However, if you go to the ends of your rope, you should be at a small ledge partway up walt's wall, and an easy down climb will get you to the dirt. |
By Nate26
Sep 14, 2008
| Great route. Quite an effort. More of a fist crack than a real ow for me. |
By Larry Bruce
Apr 29, 2009
| Wow, what a shot with the guy doing this with shorts on, guy is a dude! |
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.11a
| I don't see how anything you can fit your whole hand inside could possibly be....
Nevermind.
5.11a.
I love this climb. |
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 2, 2010
| We met Big Bob doing this in '83- he told us it was 10. Hanging out with Connie was way more fun. |
By Hank the Tank
From: Golden, CO
Aug 27, 2011
| Just for the record, this 4 star meg-classic, FULLY sandbagged 11a can bite me. |
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