Hornet's Rest 5.8+
| 895 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Ted Wilson, Bob & Wilf Bruschke |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Jun 16, 2005 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: Dihedrals area
Add Photo  Printer View
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
|
|
Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
|
|
Description This climb starts from the anchors of Half-a-Finger. First do Half-a-Finger, or I think maybe this ledge is reachable from the top of the Five Fingers buttress (?).
The pitch climbs a short hand crack in a right facing dihedral to a huge ledge. Then a few delicate moves up a very thin finger crack/seam in a dihedral lead to a roof. Hand traverse right along the roof and then up a groove/crack to the anchors atop Satan's Corner.
One 60m rope can rap here down to a ledge at the start of Lisa's Shoulder. This climb is kind of ricey, it doesn't look like it is done very often. Worth climbing once.
Protection Single set of cams from red alien up to #3 camalot. Stoppers. Chain anchors shared with Satan's Corner.
| Comments on Hornet's Rest |
|
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Park City, UT
Jun 17, 2005
| Hornet's Rest is the crack system above all the other dihedral routes in the beta photo. It climbs up the right facing dihedral seen in the picture, then traverses the roof (shaded) rightward. |
By Double D SLC
Sep 18, 2007
rating: 5.8
| Why not climb 2 great pitches instead of one? |
By zoso
Jun 5, 2010
rating: 5.8+
| I thought this route was fantastic. Very clean, not "ricey" as reported. Crux after crux after crux with great stances for gear. We had a #4 camalot that was key for the traverse. A #5 would have been a little easier to deal with, but is not esential. And yes, you can get to it w/out climbing half-a-finger, but why? |
By Tyler King
From: Salt Lake, UT
Jun 6, 2010
| Rock quality is good, and the climbing is varied and consistent at the grade. Great route that had me grinning for a while after! There is only one place that will take your #4, so dig deep... |
By The Real Mark Evans
From: Sandy, UT
Mar 31, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Pretty cool little route! I didn't have a #4 and don't feel I needed one. A #2.5 friend(#2 camalot) protected the start and a #3 camalot protected the end. Either way, this is a worthy route for sure. |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jul 22, 2011
| Make sure to bring some micros and a purple tcu as the gear placements are small for the first 20 feet after the hand crack. The roof looks hard as it is quite wide, but some shuffle underclinging will get you past it without too much stress. I did place a #4 camalot but not absolutely necessary. Another good moderate route at the dihedrals. |
|
RSS Feed
122 more...
