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BETA PHOTO: Horndog
Horndog is located on the lower reaches of the Solar Slab, about 100 yards to the right (east) of Solar Slab Gully
. Approach as per the Gully route but break to the right from the trail at the last moment.
Horndog is a three pitch route that will take you to the giant terrace about a quarter of the way up the Solar Slab cliff. From here you can access many other routes such as (l-r) Going Nuts
, Solar Slab
"Horndog Select" is a continuation of the three pitch Horndog route, climbing above it from the terrace. This section was improved by the addition of two, more difficult pitches at the top, and thus became known as Sundog
Pitch 1 of Horndog climbs a fairly low angle crack through bizzare black varnish and it takes you up to the right side of a roof. Cut right below the roof - the climbing is quite steep here. Once around the roof, ramp up to the left, climb the face for about fifteen feet and then cut right again, to a large black heuco. Belay here. (5.8, 170 feet)
Pitch 2 continues straight up a black water streak through several more large huecos. As the climbing becomes more steep bear left along a nice finger crack to small ledge. Ramp up right to a giant ledge and belay. (5.8 170 feet)
For the next pitch, you'll have to move your belay station across a shallow chimney to the base of a right leaning fist crack.
Pitch 3 follows the fist crack to the top, which brings you to the terrace. (5.8 140 feet)
For this three pitch route, you'll only need a standard rack up to 3". There are no fixed anchors.
By Stone Nude
Mar 22, 2007
Neglected, fun route with more of an adventure feel than either Beulah's or JV. If you're feeling solid, this could be a good way to pass slow parties on either of the other approach routes to the huge solar slab ledge. Takes good wires all the way, solid gear, worthwhile. Excellent views of the crux pitch of the Friar high on the route. Variations look very possible once on the big ledge below the last pitch (P3/4)
From: Portland, OR
Dec 7, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Don't let the books scare you away with the description of thin fragile rock. We didn't break any. Saw where thin flakes had been broken. Mostly face climbing. We did use 3 to 4 inch cams in horizontal cracks on 2nd pitch. Sustained 5.8. Great Climb. Rap the gully.