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Mud Spring Canyon
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Chuckwalla 21 T 
Horn/Carson T 
Schwa, The T 
Sidewinder, The T 

Horn/Carson 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 650', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Maurice Horn, Andrew Carson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 451
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Aug 31, 2009

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Andy Carson below northeast edge of Global Peak.

Description 

This is an interesting route with good climbing, although the approach is a little rough. It's more fun than Sidewinder, and makes an overall shorter day than the northeast face routes. The first pitch is probably the crux, and each pitch has good climbing. Only the belay at the top of the third pitch was somewhat awkward, and it wouldn't be hard to find a better one by not running it out to near the end of the rope. The final overhang is a little scary, with scant pro off the deck, but it eases quickly. Scrambling to the summit has one mild 5th class stretch that is a little trickier on the downclimb.
Climb the dogleg crack and traverse left to another crack at the dogleg. Continue to a bush and belay. Follow a right-facing corner, then a left-facing corner, to a big ledge. Go right on the ledge and belay below a wide crack/chimney. Climb this and continue up a wide chimney leading to a right-facing corner. Step left onto an enjoyable face which leads to a "V" below a large roof. Climb the left side of the "V" and belay shortly above. Scramble to the summit, with some short 4th/5th class sections.


Location 

The route climbs the right edge of the east face, and is easily visible from the desert floor driving into Black Velvet. Take the trail and cross country route into the mouth of Mud Spring, but go up the south branch. Turn up left through brush just beyond the fork, then take ledges back right and into the south branch proper. Continue up brushy terrain, with some tricky sections, generally on the right side of the gully. Take the rightmost of two gullies higher up, then traverse left over to the base of the wall. The route starts in a whitish dogleg crack with a major flake or pillar to its left. Rap the route from gear, chockstones, and trees.


Protection 

A standard rack to 3".



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