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Routes in East Wall
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A Few Dollars More. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X |
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Bear's Reach T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Between the Lines T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Deviate, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Easier Said than Done T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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East Corner T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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East Corner Arete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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East Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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East Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Wall Arete T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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End of the Line T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fantasia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Far East T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Fear No Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Fireworks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Flying Circus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Flying Circus/ Fireworks combo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ham Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Haystack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Horn Blower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Labor of Love S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Last Sandwich, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Out to Lunge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Pigs on the Wing T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pop Bottle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Preparation H T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Psychedelic Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Psychedelic Tree T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Scimitar T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Showtime T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Unnamed T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Steve Miller, Greg Dexter (1976) |
| Page Views: | 1,166 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Salamanizer Ski on Jun 30, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
The star rating only applies to the second pitch. The first is a bomb and the last is non trivial.
Start by climbing up the obvious vertical crack that looks like it would be great climbing if it weren't for the solid line of thick bushes along the entire way. Battle your way through this jungle to the outside ledge just left of the big ledge on the first pitch of East Wall.
Pitch two climbs up where the second pitch of East Wall goes, but instead of traversing left, continue up the splitter crack above with turns into face and several small roofs. Look for the gigantic horn shaped horn (you'll know when you see it) sling it and find a good place just above to build an anchor. This is a pretty fun pitch and a great, more adventurous variation to East Wall if you so choose to climb it that way.
Pitch three is low angle slabs and dikes to the top.
Start by climbing up the obvious vertical crack that looks like it would be great climbing if it weren't for the solid line of thick bushes along the entire way. Battle your way through this jungle to the outside ledge just left of the big ledge on the first pitch of East Wall.
Pitch two climbs up where the second pitch of East Wall goes, but instead of traversing left, continue up the splitter crack above with turns into face and several small roofs. Look for the gigantic horn shaped horn (you'll know when you see it) sling it and find a good place just above to build an anchor. This is a pretty fun pitch and a great, more adventurous variation to East Wall if you so choose to climb it that way.
Pitch three is low angle slabs and dikes to the top.
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