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Horizontal Mambo 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Luke Malatesta et al, FFA: Mason Earle, November 2010
Page Views: 3,435
Submitted By: Spencer Weiler on Sep 27, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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getting to the crux

Description 

Climb the low angle dihedral start of Bad Moki Roof but head right under the big roof along positive holds in the horizontal crack, clipping the fixed draws, rather then up the leftward thin hand crack of BMR. Most of the holds are good but feet are non-existent so some horizontal positioning is required to prevent campusing the route. Really fun. Crux comes right at the end.

Location 

Same start as Bad Moki Roof. Look for the fixed draws heading horizontally below a big roof.

Protection 

A few small pieces in the .3 to .75 camalot range for Bad Moki start, one draw for first bolt, then fixed draws to finish.


Photos of Horizontal Mambo Slideshow Add Photo
Plenty of pictures of me in between bolts.  No pictures of me clipping the chains.  All those pictures were...uhhh...lost...that's what happened.
Plenty of pictures of me in between bolts. No pic...
Right before I fell and quit the route.
Right before I fell and quit the route.
Bad picture. Sorry. But it shows the fixed draws and gives an idea of how the route goes
Bad picture. Sorry. But it shows the fixed draws a...
Following horizontal mambo
Following horizontal mambo

Comments on Horizontal Mambo Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 10, 2011

Great climb! I found that campusing some sections is far easier than spending the time to get your feet in the flake. Hard to make the clips. A few of the holds toward the end are somewhat friable.
By D-Storm
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

I played on this route last spring and it is a lot of fun. It was also scary at the time. The first bolt was hanging a couple inches out of its straight-up placement in the roof; I pushed it back in and tightened it down with my fingers and continued cautiously, clipping two fixed draws. Between the third bolt (second fixed draw) and the "anchor" there was a hole that was apparently missing a bolt. I gave a couple half-hearted attempts at the crux before walking away the missing bolt made it pretty scary to try very hard, because the swings were big and I came within 3 or 4 feet of grazing the slab below. I wondered if someone cleaned the fourth bolt and loosened the first to deter attempts without red-tagging the route, or just to add more excitement. In the photo, it looks like the missing bolt has been replaced?
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Mar 24, 2012

I believe I did the FFA on this one (nov 2010). The bolt twists out from people hanging on the route I would guess. Glue-ins would work well for this pitch. Press out the mantle at the end, or no send!!
By Skylar Smith
Jun 16, 2012

Could someone please put in the first bolt of this!!!
By paaul
Oct 3, 2013

The first ascent was done free. bolts came later
By ben jammin
From: Moab, UT
Feb 21, 2014

I agree with Mason, no mantle, no send. Although the mantle is not getting any easier as holds break at the end..