Climb the low angle dihedral start of Bad Moki Roof but head right under the big roof along positive holds in the horizontal crack, clipping the fixed draws, rather then up the leftward thin hand crack of BMR. Most of the holds are good but feet are non-existent so some horizontal positioning is required to prevent campusing the route. Really fun. Crux comes right at the end.
Same start as Bad Moki Roof. Look for the fixed draws heading horizontally below a big roof.
A few small pieces in the .3 to .75 camalot range for Bad Moki start, one draw for first bolt, then fixed draws to finish.
Great climb! I found that campusing some sections is far easier than spending the time to get your feet in the flake. Hard to make the clips. A few of the holds toward the end are somewhat friable.
By D-Storm Oct 18, 2011 rating: 5.13-7c+29IX+29E7 6c
I played on this route last spring and it is a lot of fun. It was also scary at the time. The first bolt was hanging a couple inches out of its straight-up placement in the roof; I pushed it back in and tightened it down with my fingers and continued cautiously, clipping two fixed draws. Between the third bolt (second fixed draw) and the "anchor" there was a hole that was apparently missing a bolt. I gave a couple half-hearted attempts at the crux before walking away — the missing bolt made it pretty scary to try very hard, because the swings were big and I came within 3 or 4 feet of grazing the slab below. I wondered if someone cleaned the fourth bolt and loosened the first to deter attempts without red-tagging the route, or just to add more excitement. In the photo, it looks like the missing bolt has been replaced?
I believe I did the FFA on this one (nov 2010). The bolt twists out from people hanging on the route I would guess. Glue-ins would work well for this pitch. Press out the mantle at the end, or no send!!