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Gateway Crag
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Harsh Width 
Horizontal Departure 

Horizontal Departure 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Randy Marsh, Wendell Broussard, Pete Absolon, 1984
Season: All
Page Views: 394
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Feb 12, 2012
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Andy Hansen under the roof.

Description 

The roof crack you've spied from the wash looks a lot harder than it actually is. However, it's a fun climb and offers good jamming, good protection and a good view of Gateway Canyon.

Start up the chockstone filled chimney until you reach the finger crack. Place some pro and pull a few chimney moves until you're right under the intimidating roof. From here the feet disappear but the jams and finger locks are solid. Move out towards the lip of the roof and pull out from under it.

A belay can be built on medium cams and one 4" piece. To descend scramble up easy terrain and continue to the west where you will find a gully that can easily be scrambled back and around to the base of the route.


Location 

The central route at Gateway Crag. Easily identifiable from the wash.


Protection 

Double cams from .5-3" for the crack. A 4" piece for the belay.



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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Feb 13, 2012

Page 373 Handren, first route on the page.

It's a fun one, still pretty crunchy if I remember correctly.

FA Randy Marsh, Wendell Broussard, Pete Absolon (RIP) 1984

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Feb 13, 2012

Thanks Killis. I didn't even notice it. I was just so awe struck by that photo of Jarret Hunter on Synapse Collapse that I didn't even look at the words below the photo!

The route is very fun. The lower section is a bit chossy (chockstones) but the upper is surprisingly solid stone.