||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Tom Carruthers and Pat Maloney, 1982, FFA, Tom and Steve Carruthers, 1982|
|Page Views: ||304|
|Submitted By: ||Arie on Feb 24, 2011|
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Above the trees and into quality liebacks but dete...
Taken in halves, this is a disjointed little climb that would (as usual) be great if it got a bit more traffic. Unfortunately a large spat of scrub oak in the middle of climb seriously detracts from its quality. I found myself wishing I was sipping scotch rather than playing this game of hopscotch.
Climb a quality but gritty corner (lieback and hands) for about thirty feet before traversing along a short sidewalk to the offending scrub oak. Tunnel your way upward, reaching the crouton-laden crux above. Unfortunately, at this point you are out of sight of your belayer, so muster your courage and fire away. Fun lie-backing awaits, but so does a whipper into the trees if you blow it. Belay at the intersection of Statis by looping some eroding hoodoos. Walk off west.
At about the same level as the top of the lower Burner Buttress but about 50 meters east. It is slightly up and west from the base of Stasis, starting in an obvious small dihedral. Walk off west.
Standard LCC rack, with perhaps two #2 and #3 C2's, although you could get by with less.
Classic scrub oak thrutching.
From: Small Lake, UT
Feb 24, 2011
Great write up, "crouton-laden crux" had me rolling...
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Feb 26, 2011
Thanks- those blasted croutons dispatched me directly into the scrub oak salad below on my first go. My second go felt more like roller skating than climbing...
Feb 27, 2011
A proud No-Star send!!! Strong work, S