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Routes in Upper Burner Wall
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Hopscotch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stasis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Tom Carruthers and Pat Maloney, 1982, FFA, Tom and Steve Carruthers, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 701 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Arie on Feb 24, 2011 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Taken in halves, this is a disjointed little climb that would (as usual) be great if it got a bit more traffic. Unfortunately a large spat of scrub oak in the middle of climb seriously detracts from its quality. I found myself wishing I was sipping scotch rather than playing this game of hopscotch.
Climb a quality but gritty corner (lieback and hands) for about thirty feet before traversing along a short sidewalk to the offending scrub oak. Tunnel your way upward, reaching the crouton-laden crux above. Unfortunately, at this point you are out of sight of your belayer, so muster your courage and fire away. Fun lie-backing awaits, but so does a whipper into the trees if you blow it. Belay at the intersection of Statis by looping some eroding hoodoos. Walk off west.
Climb a quality but gritty corner (lieback and hands) for about thirty feet before traversing along a short sidewalk to the offending scrub oak. Tunnel your way upward, reaching the crouton-laden crux above. Unfortunately, at this point you are out of sight of your belayer, so muster your courage and fire away. Fun lie-backing awaits, but so does a whipper into the trees if you blow it. Belay at the intersection of Statis by looping some eroding hoodoos. Walk off west.
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