|The Other Place
To start, scramble to the top of the ramped boulder or start by stemming between the boulder and the wall to reach the first bolt. Climb straight up the clean face using small but positive crimps the whole way. Near the top, the route can be made a touch harder by not using the wall to the right.
This route is located toward the right side of this area. After passing Low Brow, 5.12a and Macauley's Irish Stout, 5.12b, you'll come to a ramped boulder about 3 feet away from a short face. This is the right most line between the wall and this boulder.
5 bolts, shuts.
From: Hampton, Virginia
Aug 23, 2011
The book describes the anchors as "rope twisting" It now has quick links on it. I had no trouble with a twisted rope.
|By Caleb Efta|
From: Golden, CO
Jun 5, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I second the above comment, the top anchors are fine. The route is fun and enjoyable. You can get to the start by either squeezing through the crack on the right, or scrambling up the easy slab of the boulder.