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Necromancer Wall
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Hop Route 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Hop, Joe and Betsy Herbst, 1975
Page Views: 3,668
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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BETA PHOTO: Beta shot of the start. Where the crack crashes i...

Description 

This is route "A" in the picture.

The Hop Route is found on the left side of the wall and starts one of two ways: 1) In the prominent right-facing corner system (5.7+) or 2) in a nice looking hand crack (5.7) fifteen feet to the right of the corner that sort of arches up and left to join the corner. Either way, climb up to the top of the corner where there are some chockstones. You can rap from here off slings (most do), or continue up another couple pitches via cracks. If you do this, descent is supposed to be walk off towards the road.

Protection 

Standard rack. Small to #3 Camalot or so.


Photos of Hop Route Slideshow Add Photo
This is the belay station at the top of Hop Route....
This is the belay station at the top of Hop Route....
Traversing back to the left.
Traversing back to the left.
The rest before the crux.
The rest before the crux.

Comments on Hop Route Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 7, 2014
By L. Hamilton
May 13, 2004

Descent is not a walkoff -- mixed downclimbing/tree rappel down a steep gully system behind the left side of the crag. Be careful.
By Matt Faust
Feb 24, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Both times I've done this climb I've found the wide section early in the crack to be brutal. But nobody else ever mentions it so I guess it's not that bad. The anchor on top of the first pitch is an amazing nest of multicolored slings around chickenheads and through natural threads. Close inspection, however, reveals that none of these features look like they could hold much more than bodyweight. We climbed up a bit to the left and belayed on a large ledge. The second pitch is good, definately worth doing. 5.6-ish crack climbing. The third pitch is just a short scramble, and the descent gully is kind of nasty. We did a couple raps.
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 24, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Word of warning- the right-hand crack (the "normal" start) is clean, beautiful and aesthetic. The left-hand crack, in the corner, is dirty, loose and hard to protect. This could limit its popularity...
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 20, 2005

Where the variations join there is a block with slings, it was not clear to me if this was supposed to be the end of the first pitch or not. Swain says P1 is only 100' long so I think he is thinking so. Anyway, I decided to continue to the anchor you can see from the ground that is mentioned above. Here I found a giant ledge with two chopped bolts, and above this a mass of slings wrapped around and jammed in every crack in sight. It is true that some of the knobs look pretty bad, but other parts of the anchor looked good to me. Anyway we rapped off it (but did back it up with gear for the first guy).
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Aug 4, 2005

I totally agree with Matt Faust re; the brutality of the early wide crack section. This was one of my first few trad lead,s and I almost peed my pants on the beginning, as I found it difficult to protect and too "off-widthy" for comfort. Once I surpassed the wide crack section, my behavior instantly changed from the classic horror movie, terrified, shaky, cry baby, "I almost got eaten by a zombie," demeanor , to a euphoric, smiling, pleased, "I just shot and killed the zombie," expression. I loved the rest of the climb though ,as it was a reminder that, "Wow, leading trad is fun!" One thing for sure....This climb will stick to me like a bad Red Rock tick would like to do.
By Christa Cline
Oct 20, 2005
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

The wide crack start was indeed not easy. Even higher up going up the thinning crack the route kept me focused. I'd say this route is more aesthetic and harder as well as more sustained than "Fold Out" (two route over to the right).
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 4, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The webbing sling anchors at 100 feet and 175 feet have both been removed from this route sometime in the last year. This leaves no option for descent other than climbing to the top of the feature and walking off left.

I don't know why they were removed, perhaps they were unsightly (see picture), but they weren't unsafe. Climbers are now commited to climb less-memorable and more-junky rock to the top. John
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

well, some kind soul has replaced the rap anchor at 150' or so (maybe 175'- two ropes get you down comfortably)...it had a carabiner and a hollow rap ring- i added a locker to make it more equalized....the webbing and cordlette are very new.

really good climbing- the spooky start felt much more relaxed since the first time i did it a few years back, but my partner was pretty stressed leading it!

also, the left hand corner seems to be semi-decent- my friends did it today and didnt complain about a lack of gear or bad rock, but i think the right hand start still is the way to go- it's pure joy after the first 20' or so!
By Bart Fay
From: Redlands, California
Mar 20, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

'Thought the version of the first pitch that stopped before pulling up above the roof line (160ft?) was excellent. ****
Entry moves may well be 5.9, and a large cam (#5?) would make the wide start much easier to protect.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 9, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A heads up for folks using the descent from the top of the formation. My partner and I had to leave one of our ropes as a fixed line due to severe rock fall damage up on Crawford's Corner. The rope as fixed to the anchor is fine for rappelling, but I would appreciate it if it be taken down if someone gets to it before I do- it has several core shots and I cannot be sure that there is not more damage to the line that is not visible. If you do take it down, please let me know- I'll buy you a beer and send the rope back for recycling!
By Brian in SLC
Oct 19, 2008

If the rope was in the standard descent gully, it's gone.

One armbar/chicken wing move in the wide crack, and you're at the money jams.

We did the route in four pitches, belaying the first pitch at the point where the variations converge in the corner. Made rope drag less of an issue and conserved gear (geez, I think we placed a #3 camlot about 6 times on this route).

Bummer about the chopped anchor at the top of the big corner. Perfect place for a rappel. That and an anchor at the top of the "good rock" on the 5.6 crack would make this route much more enjoyable, IMHO. Less intrusive than the gobs of slings folks leave on the pinches (of dubious quality). Gully works fine for a descent, but, pulling ropes or downclimbing a gully with loose rock, part of that game I suppose... Speakin' of that gully, anyone know what the route is just right of Atras?
By Doug Foust
From: Henderson, Nevada
Jun 1, 2009

The start of the first pitch definately gets your attention. I was messing with my friend and took the #5 just to make him have to clean and carry the boat anchor...I was actually quite happy to have it for the first couple of moves.
By Steven Crisp
Sep 27, 2010

So the descent off the top? I am getting mixed opinions of whether it is a rap or a walkoff through a gully...Are there bolted anchors at the top or rotted slings? Thanks.
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Steve, I've never minded walking-off the descent on climber's left but several of my partners have preferred rapping sections of it.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 20, 2011

The "nest of slings" 150 feet up has been removed, this rap anchor is now about 10 feet lower, a bunch of slings attached to a wire and around a block. The only problem is that this is 3 feet below the belay ledge, making for an awkward start to the rappel.

The bottom move past the wide section is the crux.
By Jeff Stephens
From: Carbondale, CO
Oct 5, 2011

Yeah, kinda burly start, much harder than anything on Fold Out. Good protection though. After that, first pitch is sustained solid 5.7. Ignore the wad of slings and belay on top of the block they hang from. Then do pitch 2, which has a fun 5.6 finger crack and then I ran it out (5.5?) up a yellow knobby face to the top, left of the Fold Out finish. Just under 60 meters to belay from the little tree on the top of the Necromancer. Fun climbing.

Descent: Single 60m rope. From top of the formation, start heading down the gully on climber's left for about 40 feet then look for rap slings around to the right. Rap off small pine tree/slung boulder 29 meters to two-bolt anchor. Another rappel to easy ground.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 23, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The pitch length in our book was off (Brock) and I passed the slug block about 65ft up, and kept going to the top of the corner to another slung block. I got lowered from here to the ground with a 70meter cord.

Climbing is ok, thought the start was funky, but the rest of the route was fine. Lob in whatever pro you have, including a large-ish cam if you have it. If not, no worries, other stuff will fit too.
By mmacelhi
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

did the right crack variation and found that section harder than sensuous mortician or anything else on the wall. fun and balancey without any off width technique needed. nice fun climb in a cool location.