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 ADVANCED
Alcatraz Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdman T,S 
Hoosgal T 
Machinegun S 
Scarface T 
Solitary S,TR 

Hoosgal 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA:  Kurt Schroeder
Page Views: 1,532
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Description 

This climb heads up cracks on the far left side of the Alcatraz Wall. This is the last major crag on the east side of the creek as you head down through Jailhouse Rock. To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall. Hoosgal is an easy gear lead up a fractured buttress. Gear placement isn't always as easy as the climbing, but this is a good beginner route.

Protection 

Bring along small to medium cams and stoppers. Chains up top.


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By Vincent Greene
Mar 14, 2004

First ascent was Kurt Schroeder
By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Jan 24, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

This route has very limited protection, pay attention to where you put your cams as they may be on blocks held in by dirt etc. This climb is also a staircase for the most part.
By Mike Senigo
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 17, 2010

There is plenty of placement for pro on this route, in fact I like to overplace on this route just for the practice of plugging my pro since I climb mostly sport. It is pretty much a staircase, but its a fun climb.
By Brandon Baldwin
From: Sahuarita, AZ
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I found that there were plenty of places to put pro after the first 15 feet. I used one bolt from the route just left of Hoosgal to protect the lower section prior to getting to the crack. This is a great place to practice trad climbing as the climb is very easy and there are tons of places to put pro once you are on the crack.