The original route is technically a variation of Hard Up. It starts with that 5.9 lieback crack for 20 feet, then goes around the hump to the right, and up the face, trending right to finish at the bolted anchor under the roof.
On toprope, I preferred starting on the balancey arete and face section, right of the Hard Up crack start. This also avoids encroaching on climbers on that route when the rope is already hung.
Middle Spire north face, between Over Easy and Hard up to the left, and Slowdancer to the Right.
Little pro for the first crack section and cracks between the knobs above; and slings for knobs. Two bolt anchor/rap station of recent vintage at the top.
From: Oakland CA
Dec 18, 2012
This lead originally had a few bolts on it, which were still in when I did the route shortly after it went up. I think you'd want some small gear to supplement between those knobs on the upper face.
|By Justin Johnsen|
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 20, 2012
Thanks, C., I updated the pro with your notes! I've only TRed this line so far.