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Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass T 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 
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Hooray Hooray! 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Greg Barnes, 8 May, 2006
Page Views: 321
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Dec 18, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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This sounds like the variation we climbed, except ...

Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


The original route is technically a variation of Hard Up. It starts with that 5.9 lieback crack for 20 feet, then goes around the hump to the right, and up the face, trending right to finish at the bolted anchor under the roof.

On toprope, I preferred starting on the balancey arete and face section, right of the Hard Up crack start. This also avoids encroaching on climbers on that route when the rope is already hung.


Middle Spire north face, between Over Easy and Hard up to the left, and Slowdancer to the Right.


Little pro for the first crack section and cracks between the knobs above; and slings for knobs. Two bolt anchor/rap station of recent vintage at the top.

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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 18, 2012

This lead originally had a few bolts on it, which were still in when I did the route shortly after it went up. I think you'd want some small gear to supplement between those knobs on the upper face.
By Justin Johnsen
From: Sacramento, CA
Dec 20, 2012

Thanks, C., I updated the pro with your notes! I've only TRed this line so far.
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