Hook & Drill 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Jim Beyer |
| Submitted By: | eDixon on Sep 20, 2008 |
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Description Climb 15' of junk, then go out a large roof with a bolt at the lip, place gear in the crack to reach a few more bolts that trend left to a bolted anchor shared with Tarantula. It is a good, varied route.
Location This is just right of Tarantula.
Protection Bolts & gear - #0.75 Camalot.
By Devin Fin From: DURANGO Sep 25, 2012
| I would like to replace all hangers on this thing. We climbed it last night in the good light... had a blast think theas old fence post hangers have seen their time in the Valley.... If aneyone has a issue with that, let me know I will leave it alone.... Thanks very strong an' well-minded community.... |
By eDixon From: Durango, Colorado Sep 29, 2012
| Been a long time since I've been on this thing, but I do remember some old hardware. I'm all for replacing the bolts. East A has been a great local crag to many of us for many years and now has its share of aging hardware. It is a costly and time consuming process to make upgrades. Many thanks! |
By Devin Fin From: DURANGO Sep 29, 2012
| EDIT: the bolts are so in this rock!!! I tried for about 30 min on 2 of the bolts and they did not budge.... The damage that would be done to the rock would far out weigh the "let's make this route more modern". I might remove the bolt and replace it at the bulge that would gut you if you fell on it.... Let me know what the East A LOCOS say, input would be nice.... Thanks, DF |
By eDixon From: Durango, Colorado Oct 5, 2012
| Climbed this today for the first time in a long time. The bolts still seem solid enough but those hangers could definitely be upgraded. Good route that should see more traffic. |
By chosspector From: San Juans, CO Oct 19, 2012
| FA: Jim Beyer, which is why the hangers are total crap.... |
By Matthias Holladay From: Durango, Colorado Nov 6, 2012
| I'm still curious about viewing your film.... |
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