Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Harlequin Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
By Hook or By Crook T 
Chinese Handcuffs T 
Cyclone T 
Heat Sensitive S 
Hoodwink T 
Sausalito Archie's Overhang T 
Sting, The T 
Third World T 

Hoodwink 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 420'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell, Rodger Breedlove, '72
Page Views: 2,477
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Jun 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
eric collins leading the hoodwink roof

Description 

A strange but enjoyable route. Cruxes on the third and fourth pitches (check out the photo in the latest guidebook).
p1- Follow a straight-in handish crack to a shallow left facing corner. Mildly flaring jams. Short. 70', 5.8.
p2- Continue up this corner liebacking and sometimes jamming to a 10' slab traverse left towards an obvious ledge. Locate a pin and a pod for a purple camalot to belay off of. 140', 5.9
p3- Follow an easier right-facing corner up to the "6 foot" roof. It didn't seem quite that big, but my feet definitely cut. Clip a pin for protection and go for it. The pitch ends at bolts. 110', .10a.
p4- Climb some 5.10 slab moves up ever-mellowing terrain to a two-bolt belay. 100', 5.10a.


Location 

You can see the roof you're aiming for from the ground. Follow the corners up to it. Walk off to the left and descend the gully to the looker's left of Harlequin Dome.


Protection 

A wide range of gear. A fixed pin in the roof and bolts on the final slab pitch.



Photos of Hoodwink Slideshow Add Photo
A younger John Warren on Hoodwink roof in the 90's?
A younger John Warren on Hoodwink roof in the 90's...
Scott seconding the hoodwink roof from the belay directly under.
Scott seconding the hoodwink roof from the belay d...
Josh about to commit to the roof on Hoodwink.
Josh about to commit to the roof on Hoodwink.
Scott leading the Hoodwink roof.  He is 6'2" so I'd say 6 ft roof is a fair measure.
Scott leading the Hoodwink roof. He is 6'2" so I'...
Josh over the roof on Hoodwink.
Josh over the roof on Hoodwink.
Comments on Hoodwink Add Comment
Show which comments
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Jul 7, 2009

Thought this route was super rad and makes for a great day (or afternoon) when combined with The Sting and By Hook Or By Crook.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Aug 12, 2009

1st two pitches link easily with 70m rope, and maybe even with a 60.

3rd pitch moves well right out the arch so sling looong and protect sparingly or suffer heinous rope drag. I had to do the move, lower down and unclip the two pins and redo the move, and the ropedrag for bringing up the second was still terrible much of the pitch.

Fun roof pull!

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 11, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Definitely a tough pull. The pin can be backed up by an green or yellow alien.

By C-Tuttle
Sep 29, 2010

Supper fun route! Fun climbing the entire way up. Beware of rope drag on the third pitch, use lots of runners before the first little roof thing before the arch. The last 5.7 pitch was scary... or maybe I I just got lost on the slab... or maybe 5.7 slab is just too much for this one to muster. I don;t know.

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 21, 2012

FA story by Breedlove
www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=88565

By Fluoride
From: Los Angeles, CA
Sep 26, 2012

The traverse to the sick roof
The traverse to the sick roof



The first pitch is nothing like the rest of the route. I love the first pitch so much. But it's nothing like what's to come.

Everything after is slick and dependent on good footwork.

Linked the 5.9/5.7 together and it was great, less rope drag and we ended up in a better belay stance for the traverse to roof.

The roof, I botched badly. I need to get solid on V3's to get over that thing solid.

The 5.10a off the final pitch was joyous to me cause that's the style of climbing I like. The hanger less bolt from the FA is still there right above the first bolt.