Hoods in the Woods
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|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.11 [details]|
|FA: ||Caleb Padgett/Michael Banach 11/20/09|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Caleb Padgett on Dec 4, 2009|
This is a nice 3 pitch climb that begins approximately 150' to the left of Mythical Kings and Iguanas and 200' to the right of Chasity Crack in an obvious handcrack splitting the arete.
P1 Begin by climbing the striking handcrack that slashed around the arete quickly widening to fists then O.W. The crux is turning the arete 5.10b. From here climb up the 4-7 inch crack, laybacking and faceclimbing outside of the crack. At ledge traverse right 30 feet and set belay just above the small tree visable from the ground. 120'
P2 Faceclimb up and right heading for the thin varnished cracks on the face. A red alien in a pod was key in protecting this section. Climb the steep varnished crack (5.10) to a ledge and then climb the fingercrack buldge (5.11) and finish with nice hands to a bolted anchor. 100'
P3 Climb the nice fist crack which leads to a strenuous O.W. crack through a buldge (10+/11-). Climb the remaining 30 feet to a ledge with a nice 2 bolt anchor. 100'
The route converges with mythical kings and iguanas on this ledge. It would be possible to continue up MKI or climb the first three pitches and rappel our route. Do two rappels with 60m ropes to get back to the base
This route starts on a distinct arete splitting the north and northwest faces. It is about 300' to the left of the north ridge. Park at the visitor center and hike up the wash behind the shuttle bus yard. Follow this wash and climb up a few boulder obstacles. There will be a smaller/steep wash that cuts out of the right side od the drainage you are hiking in that takes up directly up to the north face of the watchman and the start of Chasity Crack. The start is brushy but the rest is steep but not too bad. 1-1.5 hours See the new supertopo zion guide for more detailed approach beta.
2 60m ropes
2-3 sets of cams from .4'-4'
2 each #5,#6 camalot