Honky Tonk Woman 5.9 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Dick Williams, Dave Loeks, 1971. |
| Submitted By: | John Peterson on Apr 14, 2007 |
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BETA PHOTO: Honky Tonk Woman meanders up this runout face.
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Description This is an atypical Gunks route - rather than burly overhangs, it features delicate footwork on less-than-vertical rock. The protection rating is debatable since you can't really be sure of the tiny wires that protect the crux. I compensate by putting in lots of them.
The business starts after you clip the bolt -- climb a hard-to-protect groove to easier ground. Above, traverse left to a rap station atop White Pillar. A single rope gets you down.
Location Locate this by finding the obvious chimney of White Pillar. The bolt is about 20' up and serves as a way to definitively locate the route. It's about 10 - 15 minutes out from the popular part of the cliff.
Protection After clipping the bolt, the route takes mainly small wires. Bring a wide assortment and you'll probably get in enough gear to feel OK at the crux.
| Comments on Honky Tonk Woman |
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By JSH
Administrator
Jun 27, 2009
| I've led a reasonable number of 5.9s at the Gunks, and I'm usually a good face climber. This route had me desperate on TR! The holds are better-looking from below .... NB there's a fair amount of climbing (and an unfair amount of pro) before you get to the bolt. |
By Dan Wachlaczenko
Mar 16, 2011
| More head game than anything. I think you can use small pro before the bolt but nothing bomber, and from what I remember there is a little runout before you get to the huge horizontal at the top. Definitely TR first if your head isn't there. |
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