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Westmont College Boulder
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Honk If You love Jesus 

Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: No idea. The first guy I ever saw do it was Mitch Underhill, a climber from Tahoe.
Page Views: 279
Submitted By: andy patterson on Dec 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Like he said - Go for the swing to the Pocket, or ...

Description 

Okay, so this problem was always a mystery amongst Westmont climbers. Do you throw for the pocket? Mantle out right? I always believed the problem went for the pocket.

Which is rather hard, as in harder than V5.

In my opinion, throwing out left to the pocket, letting go of the sloping crimp with your right hand, catching the swing, then topping out the boulder amounts to a stellar V7 or V8. Things also feel reach-dependent, which might affect my perspective. Whatever grade you give it, I posted V5 since that's what Ocean's Eleven and the old Edwards bouldering guide says.

Location 

To the right of the big oak tree, on the side of the boulder facing the road. Start right hand on sloping crimp, and left hand on a low left hand crimp. Left foot just off the ground, right foot pasted on a little nubbin-edge.

Protection 

Pad.


Comments on Honk If You love Jesus Add Comment
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By Bob Banks
Jan 11, 2012

Although I have it checked off in an old book, I'd be able to add nothing to the discussion since I have pretty much no recollection of this one. Steve always had a better memory than me. Edwards?
By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Oct 29, 2012

My memory is getting fuzzier. While I did, in fact, spend what seems like a ridiculous amount of time at this boulder I don't remember this either. Oddly enough things do change on soft sandstone boulders. If it feels that much harder I'm sure it is and wouldn't hesitate to change the grade.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Oct 29, 2012

This problem is so rad. Extremely low-percentage (for me), and consists of two hard hand-movements. If that's not the definition of a good problem, I don't know what is. I call this problem V7/8 for sure.
By Tim King
Jun 17, 2013
rating: V5 6C

Had my first excursion out here a few weeks ago. Legit single boulder, love that patina and crazy runnel features.

In my eyes this problems has at least 3 variations: left, to the pocket at around v7/8?, straight up (almost dynamic) seems V5, or high foot and mantel out right (probably around V5 as well).

All good fun, I'll have to come back to finish that pocket variation...