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Honeymoon's Over
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 0 from 0 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Scott Ayers & John Fowler (1990) |
Page Views: | 687 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Hendrixson on Nov 23, 2015 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
A less-than-vertical romp up a crumbly face, Honeymoon's Over is a bit rough around the edges but ultimately worth engaging. Stem 15ft past the first bolt before fully committing to the face. Pull a wild, non-obvious series of moves to reach the third bolt. From the third bolt to the chains the climbing is reminiscent of The Forgotten Wall.
While listed as a single sport pitch, Honeymoon's Over is actually a two pitch route. The second pitch climbs to the top of the formation and requires traditional equipment. I cannot comment on this pitch.
While listed as a single sport pitch, Honeymoon's Over is actually a two pitch route. The second pitch climbs to the top of the formation and requires traditional equipment. I cannot comment on this pitch.
Location
Honeymoon's Over is located between Mondo Bizzaro and Power Hungry. The former is to the left; the latter is to the right. The route starts immediately past a gap and hugs the left corner of the formation.
Protection
9 bolts to ring anchors. At times there is some distance between bolts but their placement is well thought-out. The bolting is straight-line while the climbing frequently wanders to either side.
I personally used a stick clip to secure the first bolt and to decipher a sequence between the second and third bolts. Once comfortable with the climbing, I no longer need this aid.
I personally used a stick clip to secure the first bolt and to decipher a sequence between the second and third bolts. Once comfortable with the climbing, I no longer need this aid.
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