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 ADVANCED
The Whale
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aborigine S 
Among the Stars S 
Aphrodite S 
Arapiles S 
Arnold’s Demise S 
Big E S 
Blow Tube Envy S 
Bound in Blood S 
Captain, The S 
Dreamtime S 
Esse Curve S 
Finnacle S 
First Mate S 
Gomers in Blue Shirts S 
Good Stuff, The S 
Happy Ending (formerly Top-Rope) T,TR 
HMS S 
Honeymoon Down Under S 
Just Happens S 
Mister MIA S 
Never Ever Slab, The TR 
Plunge, The S 
Red Venus S 
Route to the left of The Thin Line S 
Tempest Toast S 
Thin Line, The S 
Undulating Dingo S 
Virgin Bolters S 
Whale Rider S 

Honeymoon Down Under 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green, Sept., '04
Page Views: 915
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Apr 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Deb near the 1st bolt. Note, there is a healthy r...

Description 

This is a nice climb with 2 distinct cruxes. The first one pulls through a short bulge past two bolts. Then you climb a pretty long runout, up and right, to a steep slab with nice crimps and two more bolts. I gave the PG-13 rating, because if you were to fall prior to clipping the third bolt, it could bounce you off the flatter section of rock and possibly leave you with an injury, but this isn't too bad, and the route is still worth climbing.

Location 

This route is on the south end of the Whale, above Never-Ever Slab. From the narrow ledge above Never-Ever Slab, there is a small juniper tree on the left end of the ledge. This route is the third one right of the tree (the first two are Dreamtime and Aborigine, respectively). Guide info from Stewart Green's publication.

Protection 

4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.


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