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The Whale
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Honeymoon Down Under 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b PG13

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green, Sept., '04
Page Views: 862
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Apr 13, 2008
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Deb near the 1st bolt. Note, there is a healthy r...

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This is a nice climb with 2 distinct cruxes. The first one pulls through a short bulge past two bolts. Then you climb a pretty long runout, up and right, to a steep slab with nice crimps and two more bolts. I gave the PG-13 rating, because if you were to fall prior to clipping the third bolt, it could bounce you off the flatter section of rock and possibly leave you with an injury, but this isn't too bad, and the route is still worth climbing.


This route is on the south end of the Whale, above Never-Ever Slab. From the narrow ledge above Never-Ever Slab, there is a small juniper tree on the left end of the ledge. This route is the third one right of the tree (the first two are Dreamtime and Aborigine, respectively). Guide info from Stewart Green's publication.


4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

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