This is a very striking straight-in crack that brings full value for the grade. It begins with perfect steep hand jams then progressively becomes wider until you can finally (mercifully) squeeze your body in near the top. Expect a lot of sustained, clean offwidth climbing in between. Unfortunately, the location will likely keep this route from becoming the classic it could be if it were more accessible.
This route sits above and around the corner to the right from Coffin Corner. It is an unmistakable crack in a clean face and can be seen clearly on the approach to The Schoolyard. We approached by climbing 2 as-of-yet nameless but fun pitches, but there may be an easier way. It's worth exploring!
To approach: 20' to the right of Return of the Jedi is a wide crack in a corner. Climb this until you can step right past some very loose rock to a wider crack/chimney. Continue up to a big comfy ledge. 120' 5.8. From the ledge, scramble around the big bush on the left and continue up two parallel cracks (FUN). Exit right onto another big ledge with boulders. 80' 5.7. From this ledge, scramble around the corner to the right and up a couple bushy steps to the base of the obvious beautiful crack. 150' 4th class.
Decent: Scramble and down climb the gully to the right until forced to rappel. It's 80' off of a chockstone back to the base of the crack. Scramble back down to the top of the approach pitches and do one 200' rappel back to the ground. This rappel anchor needs some work.
Bring the biggest cams you can find. A few small cams are optional for mental well-being near the top. Be prepared to run it out.
Josh milking a rest and wondering if all that meta...
Tony relishes the security and a nice rest.
BETA PHOTO: As if you could miss this crack...
Security at last! Tony squeezes in a ways above h...
Tony approaching the business.
Josh Audrey on an early attempt of Honcho Imposter...
|By Aaron S|
Apr 22, 2009
Looks like an awesome route. Can't wait to check it out.
|By Josh Audrey|
From: LAS VEGAS
Apr 22, 2009
this thing is brutal! Tony on the other hand cruised it.......what a man.
p.s. scruggs thanks for the pizza prick.
|By John Hegyes|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 22, 2009
Mighty fine looking climb.
|By Matt Kuehl|
From: the desert
Jan 28, 2014
Finally got around to climbing this one! Hats off to the FA party for getting it done. I really enjoyed this pitch.
It's just too bad it's a pain to get to, and get off of this climb. We opted for a different approach that scrabbled through a series of sandy chimneys and navigated through bushes. We had to rope up eventually but the climbing was easy, albeit loose. It worked to get us to the base. Can't say this approach was better than the other, but it worked. After topping out the climb there isn't really any good rock to build and anchor, so I slung a kitchen table sized boulder with the rope. The descent walk off is easy to navigate, but a steep section of soft rock at the end is kind of sketchy. A foot hold broke and I gracefully dropped into a pillowy scrub oak for my finishing move to the base of the climb. To get back to the ground we slung a big tree and rapped with a single 70M back to a sandy ledge, then we down scrabbled the rest. A bit of an ordeal but if you're into offwidths its probably worth the effort.
For gear I used a single #3 through #6 Camalot with three big bros, a Green and two Blue. Nothing was run out until the top, which is not difficult chimney climbing.