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 ADVANCED
The Schoolyard
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coffin Corner T 
Deja Vu T 
Dunce's Corner T 
Honcho Imposter T 
Improbable Prose T 
Multiple Choice T 
Pop Quiz T 
Return of the Jedi T 
School of Rock T 
Schoolyard Bully T 
Short Subject T 
Sunday School T 

Honcho Imposter 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tony Thaler, DJ Norland, Carrie Bonneau and Josh Audrey. April 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,818
Submitted By: Jim Klymer on Apr 22, 2009

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Josh quickly getting deeper than hands at the star...

Description 

This is a very striking straight-in crack that brings full value for the grade. It begins with perfect steep hand jams then progressively becomes wider until you can finally (mercifully) squeeze your body in near the top. Expect a lot of sustained, clean offwidth climbing in between. Unfortunately, the location will likely keep this route from becoming the classic it could be if it were more accessible.

Location 

This route sits above and around the corner to the right from Coffin Corner. It is an unmistakable crack in a clean face and can be seen clearly on the approach to The Schoolyard. We approached by climbing 2 as-of-yet nameless but fun pitches, but there may be an easier way. It's worth exploring!

To approach: 20' to the right of Return of the Jedi is a wide crack in a corner. Climb this until you can step right past some very loose rock to a wider crack/chimney. Continue up to a big comfy ledge. 120' 5.8. From the ledge, scramble around the big bush on the left and continue up two parallel cracks (FUN). Exit right onto another big ledge with boulders. 80' 5.7. From this ledge, scramble around the corner to the right and up a couple bushy steps to the base of the obvious beautiful crack. 150' 4th class.

Decent: Scramble and down climb the gully to the right until forced to rappel. It's 80' off of a chockstone back to the base of the crack. Scramble back down to the top of the approach pitches and do one 200' rappel back to the ground. This rappel anchor needs some work.

Protection 

Bring the biggest cams you can find. A few small cams are optional for mental well-being near the top. Be prepared to run it out.


Photos of Honcho Imposter Slideshow Add Photo
Josh milking a rest and wondering if all that metal on his hip is going to be big enough to do any good....
Josh milking a rest and wondering if all that meta...
Tony relishes the security and a nice rest.
Tony relishes the security and a nice rest.
As if you could miss this crack...
BETA PHOTO: As if you could miss this crack...
Security at last!  Tony squeezes in a ways above his last gear.
Security at last! Tony squeezes in a ways above h...
Tony approaching the business.
Tony approaching the business.
Josh Audrey on an early attempt of Honcho Imposter. <br />Photo: Larry DeAngelo
Josh Audrey on an early attempt of Honcho Imposter...

Comments on Honcho Imposter Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron S
Apr 22, 2009

Looks like an awesome route. Can't wait to check it out.
By Josh Audrey
From: LAS VEGAS
Apr 22, 2009

this thing is brutal! Tony on the other hand cruised it.......what a man.
josh
p.s. scruggs thanks for the pizza prick.
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 22, 2009

Mighty fine looking climb.
By Matt Kuehl
From: the desert
Jan 28, 2014

Finally got around to climbing this one! Hats off to the FA party for getting it done. I really enjoyed this pitch.

It's just too bad it's a pain to get to, and get off of this climb. We opted for a different approach that scrabbled through a series of sandy chimneys and navigated through bushes. We had to rope up eventually but the climbing was easy, albeit loose. It worked to get us to the base. Can't say this approach was better than the other, but it worked. After topping out the climb there isn't really any good rock to build and anchor, so I slung a kitchen table sized boulder with the rope. The descent walk off is easy to navigate, but a steep section of soft rock at the end is kind of sketchy. A foot hold broke and I gracefully dropped into a pillowy scrub oak for my finishing move to the base of the climb. To get back to the ground we slung a big tree and rapped with a single 70M back to a sandy ledge, then we down scrabbled the rest. A bit of an ordeal but if you're into offwidths its probably worth the effort.

For gear I used a single #3 through #6 Camalot with three big bros, a Green and two Blue. Nothing was run out until the top, which is not difficult chimney climbing.