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Matt Nance: belay ANIMAL!
Inhuman fun, Homo Sapiens begins in a corner and flys up through ridiculously friendly jugs past a small roof. But don't get yer victory face on yet, young leader; the crux is yet to come. Kick out and right to a short headwall, then REEEEACH back left to match on the fatty, crux undercling that has rumors of footholds. If you're still with us, take the sharp, steep, and getting-slipperier-as-we-speak arete--air city! Grope for desperate edges that progressively get better, then clip those chains and try not to look like you're dry heaving. You just became a crowd favorite.
Guidebook lists this climb as 11a (6c). But it sends pretty stiff for an "a." Heads up.
Left wall (Main), second climb past all the crazy, armageddon, post-apocalyptic, future roof and flake jug insanity. Oh, just look on the wall and read, dammit. It's just right of "Neanderthal," just left of "Kamari," spelled out in blue paint.
Eleven bolts + two-bolt/two clip chain anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The mighty mighty Fiona Oz negotiates the transiti...
Feona hookin' 'n' crookin' through the initial roo...