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Big Toe to Great Chimney
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Coup de Gras T,TR 
Double Jeopardy T,TR 
Grand Illusion T,TR 
Homo Erectus T 
Icarus TR 
Impervious Horror TR 
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 
Mr. Lucky TR 
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 
Stuck Knee T,TR 

Homo Erectus 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Alex Andrews on TR, Kris Gorny on lead
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on Aug 27, 2012

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Crux moves. Photo: Darin Limvere. Aug 25 '12.

Description 

Ascend ledges 15ft to the tree and climb the obvious weakness in the middle of a steep face. Scarce pro on the bottom, decent small pro just before the crux. Sizeable runout through the crux. Little tricky but fun moves overall.

Not sure what the name is and whether this has been led or TR'd before or by who. Any info would be appreciated!


Location 

Buttress mid between Stuck Knee and Grand Illusion. See beta pictures below.


Protection 

BD C3's and Wild Country Ultralights (or equivalent).



Photos of Homo Erectus Slideshow Add Photo
Route topo.
BETA PHOTO: Route topo.
View of the route from the top of Grand Illusion.
BETA PHOTO: View of the route from the top of Grand Illusion.
Comments on Homo Erectus Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 8, 2012
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 27, 2012

To the right of S&M route #42?

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Aug 27, 2012

Doug, is S&M #42 the chimney to the left of that face?

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 27, 2012

That's what I'm asking?

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Aug 27, 2012

Yeah, maybe the chimney is #42 on Swartling's guidebook. Sorry, initially I didn't realize what S&M referred to.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Aug 27, 2012

New to me. I'd believe it's an FA!

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 27, 2012

Give it a name anyway Kris, if someone else did it they can chime in.

"?" doesn't quite do it for me.

Nice job!

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Aug 27, 2012

Chris -- you asked for it :)

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Aug 27, 2012

LOL!!!

By Alex A
Sep 7, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R

I did the FA on TR about 18 yrs ago, do not remember the name, give Swartling the info, should be in the S&M guide book, as I do not have a copy of S&M guide, not sure if it's there, road my mt bike my up service road to clean, it was dirty and removed some loose rock, look at for a lead, but big chicken after I shattered my ankle on an R route at J-Tree,
nice lead, onsight or headpoint

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Oct 8, 2012

Alex -- we could not find it in any of the guidebooks and the cliff was mossy and very dirty. I spotted this from the top of Grand Illusion and liked it because from that location it looked a little like Wild West Homo. But initially I was not sure if it would even go. So no, no OS :)

By Burt Lindquist
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Oct 8, 2012

Alex and Chris. I got on this myself on TR this week past and its pretty great little climb gem I think. Way to go. Erol Altay has establish the arete to the right now as a TR and also the face around the corner even further right and they are very worthy of everyone's attention I must say.