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Homestead

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The Rocki n Roll Wall.. 
Bone Town 
Finland Terrace 
Karma Cave 
Marley Wall 
Mouse Wall, The 
North Buttress 
Rough Rider Wall 
Slate Nation 
Tufa City 
Unnamed (above Bone Town) 
Welcome Wall 

Homestead 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 33.17393, -110.78165 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 132,575
Administrators: Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Hendrixson, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jared Payne on Feb 28, 2006
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Area | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
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BETA PHOTO: The now Iconic H at the third gate.
Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Superb limestone sport climbing in one the most serene and remote canyons Arizona has to offer.


Getting There 

Click here for Google Earth Access Info
You will need Google Earth to view the file.

See Marty Karabin's fold out guide for specific route information. Available for $5.00 at Arizona Hiking Shack.


229 Total Routes


['4 Stars',14],['3 Stars',78],['2 Stars',101],['1 Star',26],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',3],['5.8',19],['5.9',15],['5.10',46],['5.11',80],['5.12',53],['5.13',11],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Homestead:
John's Meat Market (aka: Fred's Line)   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Tufa City
Appetite For Destruction   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport, 115'   North Buttress
Tufa-one   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Sport   Tufa City
Morning Mate   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Rough Rider Wall
Prymal Instinct   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Sport, 115'   North Buttress
Couples Fear Factor   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 45'   Tufa City
Tufa Yard Dash   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Tufa City
The Rough Rider    5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 90'   Rough Rider Wall
One With Everything   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 115'   Rough Rider Wall
So Easy   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   North Buttress
Great Northern   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   North Buttress
Cold Fusion   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Rough Rider Wall
Micro Burst   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 65'   Tufa City
Black Sunshine   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Tufa City
Send Train Surfer   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Sport, 100'   Rough Rider Wall
Way 'Stead   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Sport   Tufa City
Solar Delirium   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport   Tufa City
The Riddler   5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Rough Rider Wall
Sun Burst   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tufa City
Dead Sea   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Tufa City
Browse More Classics in Homestead

Featured Route For Homestead
Gamble on John.  Climb it!

Gamble on John 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b  AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Rough Rider Wall
The climb starts with some techy moves then eases up for a bit with some fun movement to a roof in the middle of the route, here the difficulty increases, pull through this roof then up some more techy face climbing to some good holds. Try to recover here as the climbing gradually becomes more inverted to a second roof at the top of the wall, pull this roof and make a couple moves to the anchors. Probably want a 70m rope, though it looks like a 60m will barely get you down....[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ

News and Events For Homestead
Photos of Homestead Slideshow Add Photo
Hiking out on the ridge line after yet another amazing day!
Hiking out on the ridge line after yet another ama...
Matt Greco on a send of the Tufa King.  <br />Winter '13 <br /> <br /><a href='http://www.tamarahastie.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.tamarahastie.com</a>  <br /><a href='http://www.tamarahastie.wordpress.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >www.tamarahastie.wordpress.com</a>
Matt Greco on a send of the Tufa King.
Winter '13...
Big Horn at the Mouse
Big Horn at the Mouse
2/27/11
2/27/11
New 3rd Gate
New 3rd Gate
the steps up to slate
the steps up to slate
A great view to wake up to - Camping in <br />the remote valley at Homestead
A great view to wake up to - Camping in
the remote...
.
.
The typical "AFTERDARK" hike down the ridge
The typical "AFTERDARK" hike down the ridge
Some kind of intrusion (?) on Knuckle Sandwich. Pretty common for the area, and very cool. They also come in an orange brick form. Geology geeks can fill me in.
BETA PHOTO: Some kind of intrusion (?) on Knuckle Sandwich. Pr...
View of Bonetown (?) from Slate Nation wall <br />January 2008
View of Bonetown (?) from Slate Nation wall
Januar...
Promontory of Finland Wall glows in the distance. <br />January 2008
Promontory of Finland Wall glows in the distance.
...
3/6/11
3/6/11
BEEware! Large colony of bees behind tree on Welcome Wall.
BETA PHOTO: BEEware! Large colony of bees behind tree on Welco...
Paul on the steep slab of Normal Like You (12a). Photo by Hillary Davis.
Paul on the steep slab of Normal Like You (12a). P...
This is the Tufa City as see from the Karma Cave, The word is "Tufa"
BETA PHOTO: This is the Tufa City as see from the Karma Cave, ...
Looking back just after emerging from the descent to Finland Wall.  January 2008
Looking back just after emerging from the descent ...
Another intrusion thingy, also toward the top of Knuckle Sandwich.
BETA PHOTO: Another intrusion thingy, also toward the top of K...
Normal Like You (12a). I don't like to take extreme close-ups of chalky, slapping hands... I am partial to the rope-in-mouth shot, though. Photo by Hillary Davis.
Normal Like You (12a). I don't like to take extrem...
Hot Cherry Sundays (10a). Buttshot by Hillary Davis ;)
Hot Cherry Sundays (10a). Buttshot by Hillary Davi...
Crazy Bone (11b). Old, bad scan of a photo by Hillary Davis.
Crazy Bone (11b). Old, bad scan of a photo by Hill...
Looking into the canyon from the East ridge.  Marley Wall and Tufa City in the full sun, Finland Terrace in the part sun/part shaded wall, just left of that is the exit gully and the far right end of Slate Nation, the small cliff ban above SN is the far right end of Mouse Wall, and North Butt is the closer shaded wall on the left.
BETA PHOTO: Looking into the canyon from the East ridge. Marl...
Normal Like You (12a). Photo by Hillary Davis.
Normal Like You (12a). Photo by Hillary Davis.
Rough road still! 12/22/12
BETA PHOTO: Rough road still! 12/22/12
2/27/11
2/27/11
Driving out, through the crux of the road, in January 2014.
Driving out, through the crux of the road, in Janu...
High clearance vehicle required.
BETA PHOTO: High clearance vehicle required.
Homestead
Homestead
!
!
Traversing from the top of Karma to the top of Bone.
Traversing from the top of Karma to the top of Bon...
Did a lot of trail work this year at the Homestead. This is just one set of steps that is part of 69 new steps we did up to Tufa City. I'm very proud to be part of a (very small) group of Climbers that's not afraid of spending a little time and money at The Homestead.
BETA PHOTO: Did a lot of trail work this year at the Homestead...
Comments on Homestead Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 17, 2014
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 7, 2006

Lots of good info here - www.huecorockranch.com/images/Homestead.pdf

By Hillary Davis
Mar 21, 2007

The best Arizona crag that nobody's climbing at.

By Fred AmRhein
May 18, 2007

The road access to the Homestead traverses across State Trust Land and at least 3 large privately held parcels of land. Several gates will be encountered and at the present time there are no "No Trespassing" signs posted.

The end of the road where most people park is private property. Also, several developed crags are on private property. Again, at this time there are no "No Trespassing" signs posted. However, this could change quickly so please show all of the gates, properties, and livestock facilities a great deal of respect and honor any of the requests of the property owners or those representing themselves as such.

Camping on private property is discouraged at all and should never be done near any livestock corrals, watering areas, etc. Best to camp away from the private property on BLM property along the ridge a mile or two from the parking area. Reference BLM docs, Az Gazeteer, and/or Gila County Assessor land ownership documents for specific land locations.

An Arizona State Trust Land permit is required to access the dirt road directly off of the highway and this permit can be acquired on the web or at the Az State Land Dept in downtown Phoenix. (easy to get and inexpensive relative to the fines for not having one)

Don't endanger our future access by disrespecting the private property or the Az State Trust Land protocols.

By Stella
Jun 19, 2008

This area is very cool though a little hard to get to, requires a four-wheel drive truck. Your subaru will not make it!! Part of the adventure is the journey.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 21, 2008

Beware - Finland and Tufa City are loaded with bees and wasps, at least during the fall. We found many routes with what appeared to be wasp nests, judging from the number of wasps hanging out in pockets. There were also large bee hives visible in certain areas. It would be good to post if it is known whether or not Africanized bees have made it to this area. The sheer number of the pests lurking and flying around made it annoying and it would be hard not to get stung if you stayed there for any length of time. There is also a beehive in a pocket at the handrail section of the trail along the base of Slate Nation. It would be helpful if a local posted any better information on the bee and wasp deal, particularly for Finland and Tufa City as the rock was killer (just hopefully not the bees!).

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Nov 21, 2008

When were you there? I was planning on heading out there over thanksgiving. Are the routes at Finland and Tufa City still climbable? Thanks.

By Jimbo
Nov 23, 2008

Tzilla,
Every bee in the wild in Arizona is an Africanized bee. The only non-Africanized bees are domestic bees that honey producers have.

A few tips: if you are climbing around a hive don't slap or kill a bee. This releases a pheromone that tells the rest of the bees that it's time to kick some ass.
If you do get attacked run as fast as you can away from the hive. They will chase you up to 1/4 of a mile, then give up.
Don't jump into the water. They will just hover above the surface and wait for you to come up for air.
They are attracted to CO2, that's were they will try to get to first.
If your being attacked cover your nose and mouth as you run away.

Bees are like any wild critter. Sometimes they just attack unprovoked and sometimes they leave you alone.

I've climbed right into a large hive and been stung a few times and they rest of the bees left me alone as I lowered to the ground.

Also swarming bees are not going to attack. They are a group that has broken away from a hive that has gotten too big and are now out find a new place to hang with there own queen in tow. They have no hive to protect so they have no reason to be aggressive.

If you really need to take out a hive that's taken up residence on your most favorite climb. Get one of those 5 gallon pump sprayers, mix a very soapy water solution and spray away. The soap does two things. It blocks there breathing pores so they suffocate, and it prohibits the pheromone release.

Remember Africanized bees are better pollinators and better honey makers than our honey bees. (That's why they were cross bread in the first place, down in South America)

So if you can just live with them that is always best. They do good work, they're just a bit cantankerous.

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Nov 25, 2008

Thanks for the info on the bees, etc. It should be helpful to other visitors. I visited a USDA website that showed the progression of the Africanized bees in the southern US and it indicated that mainly southern AZ was affected and that further migration seemed to have stopped.

To me, in early November the bug situation made the place unclimbable and my partner had encountered a previous reaction to a wasp sting making the aura of the area that much less attractive. It would seem hard to run 1/4 mile through the local terrain there or when tied to the end of a rope to get away from an attack. Unfortunately the less interesting walls weren't as affected by the bee and wasp situation as Finland and Tufa City. Are there other walls with the tufa with fewer bugs?

By Jimbo
Nov 27, 2008

Unfortunately the big pockets in limestone make great bee hives. We have a similar problem with bees and wasps at the Mustang.
One thing we've do is to put out a bowl of water well away from where we're climbing. The bee and wasps are more attracted to the water than us. It's not uncommon to have 20 or 30 bees on the water dish.
The hotter and drier it is the more effective this ploy is.

Of course on cold days you can always climb in a bee suit.

By Trish Houghtaling
From: Flagstaff, Az
Nov 30, 2008

Just to let folks know...had a great weekend at Finland. We saw very few bees or wasps-so, head on out. Does anyone know of an updated topo for Finland area?? The old one is not very helpful and we were guessing at routes. Road was tricky but manageable with the Xterra. If you love tufa climbing you gotta check this place out!

By Forest Hill
From: Denver, CO
Apr 5, 2009

The "description" and "getting there" links are dead

By adam14113
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 29, 2009

You can download the old pdf guide: www.14113.net/Homestead.pdf

Marty has a pocket size guide available in most AZ shops that I recommend picking up.

- A

By Brigette
From: Vancouver, WA
Dec 5, 2010

PLEASE pick up your trash when you climb here - this includes toilet paper. There is quite the toilet paper bouquet building in the bushes across from the Welcome wall. Pack it in - pack it out. Thanks!

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2011

Thanks to Carter, et al for the amazing trail work. Through their efforts eroding slopes are being replaced by beautiful stairs. Thanks!

By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 21, 2011

Can some more basic info be added to this area? Is it a reasonable day trip from Phoenix, or does the drive & approach mean that a full weekend is a better way to climb here? Any updates on the road, or is a 4x4 still necessary?

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Sep 21, 2011

Peter:

The drive is approximately 2 hours from Phoenix. The dirt access road requires 20 minutes. Hence it can be done as a day trip but a weekend is more enjoyable.

Only a small portion of the road requires a 4x4 but this section was getting noticeably worse in the spring. An alternative is to hike or bike in.

You can chase sun or shade all day so you can climb all but the hottest days of the year.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 12, 2011

A few ideas...

1) A trail from Rough Rider to Tufa City would be nice.

2) A sign at the start of Tufa City reminding folks to avoid climbing tufas during wet conditions would help protect the area.

3) A few fence posts in the third gate need to be repaired.

By Peter Winter
Dec 14, 2011

We are planning on heading there in mid January. Can someone confirm that camping is allowed, obviously not on private property. Is there a certain area that is cleared out somewhat for camping? Is there a decent water source? Also, is the land trust permit still required as mentioned in the above comments? Thanx in advance for any updates.

Peter

By Red
From: Arizona
Dec 19, 2011

Yes, camping is allowed. It's awesome camping. There are two obvious camping areas. The first one you come to is just a little ways past the second gate, it is on private land. The second area is just past the third gate on your left and it's on BLM land. It is best to camp in the second area. Hopefully it's not full when you get to it. It's a little small and can only accommodate so many people.
No water source, bring what you need. I've seen the creek run through the canyon, but only a couple times and after snow melt or spring rains.
You are only on state trust land for about a half mile or so off the highway. It is my understanding that everyone on, or passing through state trust land is supposed to have a permit.
Enjoy your stay at the Homestead!

By btraxler
From: Prescott, AZ
Dec 19, 2011

OK. Seems like the Homestead is gaining a ton of climbing traffic these days. There has been for sure, significant impact in the area due to climbing. Thanks everyone for your work on the trails! Nice Work. We have a tail system. Now for Human Waste -- Please pack out your trash! and pick up a wag bag and poop in it, not in a shallow cat hole. While burying human waste works for low impact areas, it does not here! It sounds bad, but it is painless and easy to pack out your poo! Wag bags are available at any gear shop.

By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 25, 2011

Anyone have a condition report on the road going into the homestead? Is it any worse than it was a year ago?

By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 25, 2011

It is worse Erock, but put it in low and try not to get the tires spinning and you will be fine. You will apparently have more trouble getting traction at the base of climbs with all the poop laying around.

By erik hamilton
Dec 27, 2011

was out over xmas week. i have been climbing here at the stead for over 12 years and the road is in the best shape i have ever see it in have fun. PEACE E

By Erock
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 28, 2011

Well I guess I will find out soon what the road has to offer this time. Thanks!

By Beefy
Jan 2, 2012

What an AMAZING area! Thank to all of the area developers for their hard work! The trails show a huge amount of dedication...the stairs to each wall were enough to impress me, let alone the fantastic routes. MANY thanks!!

By Peter Winter
Jan 4, 2012

If the road is in the best shape ever, does that still mean 4x4 is necessary?

By erik hamilton
Jan 4, 2012

Still need four wheel drive.

By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 5, 2012

So how long does the drive take from northern Tucson (like Oracle/Ina) to Homestead?

By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Jan 5, 2012

God bless The Homestead now that it's in Climbing

By Unassigned User
Jan 12, 2012

Climbing magazine is so very lame, just a little more lame than Mountain Project. Look out fragile desert, here comes Boulder.

By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Feb 1, 2012

Its worth the hike in :)

By the schmuck
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 6, 2012

We'll be heading to Homestead sometime this month. I do not have a 4 wheel drive, but do have high clearance. I understand that there is about a 100 foot stretch that is impassable without 4WD. Does anyone know if it is possible to park and camp before this stretch? Also, how much of a hike would it be from the 4WD section? Thanks

By Red
From: Arizona
Feb 8, 2012

Hey their Schmuck, looks like you joined MP just for these questions. Welcome.
The rough part of the road is about a half mile from the highway, so the walk from there is still a ways. You can find a place to camp before the rough spot, but do know that this part of the road is State Trust land. If you do have the high clearance, good tires, and a good off-road driver; you could make it through the rough section. But I'm about the only person that dives up there in 2WD these days. You'll have to make that call when you get there and see it.
Enjoy your visit.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 8, 2012

Red has two wheel drive with a locking rear differential which is almost the same as 4X.

By Red
From: Arizona
Feb 10, 2012

No real noticeable difference with the lockers off. But I do tend to use them since I have them.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 10, 2012

The rattlers are out in force and one dog has cost their owners $1200 bucks for his curiosity. Pay attention and keep your dog close.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 1, 2013

This was one of the older thin steel SMC hangers being used for the anchor and it fractured along the bottom of the bolt hole. The rust showed that it had been this way for a while. about an eighth of an inch of un-rusted metal could be seen one the two fracture planes. This could have been very bad had the other one failed.

These were the old thinner gauge SMC hangers not the newer and quite usable ones. If you have not seen both it is hard to tell which ones you are clipping.

By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 1, 2013

Here's some photos to help illustrate the difference between the old and new style SMC bolt hangers -


New (left) and old (right) style SMC bolt hangers. Note the stamp is oriented differently on the two styles.
New (left) and old (right) style SMC bolt hangers. Note the stamp is oriented differently on the two styles.



New (top) and old (bottom) SMC bolt hangers showing the difference in thickness.
New (top) and old (bottom) SMC bolt hangers showing the difference in thickness.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 9, 2013

I have tried to convince folks there to camo the hangers and anchor hardware, so far to no avail. When the sun is at the right angle they just glow. Ticks can at least be brushed off.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 16, 2013

Hey Lar, I think John just offered to pay for some hardware to ensure that it is up to standard. I would send him your address and say thank you. John is a stand up guy who contributes to the development and upkeep of hardware on old and new routes.

By 1Eric Rhicard
May 17, 2013

Hey Lar I used to throw cans in the lake and sink them with rocks. I dont do that any more. I will bring a stencil & some paint the next time I go Lar. R you upset about something?

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 20, 2013

Huh? I don't get it. Eric's the most step up, selfless guy I know.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 26, 2013

The access road has claimed an axle and tie rod within the past two weeks. While the condition of the parts on these fairly rugged 4x4s can be debated, the road remains a serious undertaking.

By David Stephens
From: Spokane WA.
Nov 28, 2013

"The access road has claimed an axle and tie rod within the past two weeks. While the condition of the parts on these fairly rugged 4x4s can be debated, the road remains a serious undertaking."
It's the drivers on the road that claims the brake downs...not the road.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 16, 2014

I left my cheap sunglasses at the base of Tough Enough at the Rough Rider Wall on Feb 15, 2014. You can leave them there as I will be back to retrieve them and delete this comment soon enough.

By Hannahlily
From: Tempe, AZ
Feb 17, 2014

Hey I think I dropped my headlamp on the walk out about two weeks ago - has anyone seen a white black diamond headlamp?