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Homestake Road Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.10a/b S 
5.11a S 
5.11d (aka Dude I think I Lost My Wallet?) S 
5.9 S 
Don't Drag the Dog S 
Far Left 5.8 S 
Gomer Alert S 
Neon Noodle S 
Night and Day S,TR 
Psychic Bomber? S 
Three's a Charm S 
Transmogrifier S 
Wolfman Shuffle S 

Homestake Road Crag 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,000'
Location: 39.4733, -106.3715 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,722
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: John McNamee on Jun 30, 2009
Forecast:
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Description 

The Homestake Crag (AKA Homespank, after the sustained pumpy routes) is a small, super accessible, sport climbing crag consisting of about 10 climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a. This is a great crag for a quick post-work pump session, but is not recommended for a destination area. All routes are excellently bolted with more bolts through crux sequences to keep us all from decking. The majority of these routes are very quality with unique/fun crux sequences and intriguing holds (crimps, slopers, sidepulls, underclings, etc.). The rock is very featured, slightly overhanging in the middle, and routes range from 35 feet to 85 feet.

Camping is plentiful all along Homestake Rd., but get there early during the weekends for the money spots as it tends to get rather busy due to the easy access of the National Forest. Provisions can be found in Minturn (coming from the North) or Leadville (from the South). However, there is a great bar/restaurant in Redcliff called Mango's which is highly recommended.

Any info on the 2 left mostroutes would be appreciated.

This submission was intended to get the ball rolling for this little crag. If anyone can contribute FA info, pics, more detailed route info, etc. please let me know and I'd be happy to add/change what is currently there.


Getting There 

From the North: After crossing the large green bridge in Redcliff on US 24, continue 3 miles or so until you reach Homestake Rd. on your right. Follow Homestake Rd. and you will cross Homestake Creek after 1/2 mile or so. Go another 1/4 mile and the crag can easily be seen on the right.

From the South: Go 20 miles +/- from Leadville on US 24. Take a left at Homestake Rd. and follow the above directions.

There is a climber's trail on the right and the approach to the cliff is 30 seconds.


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',5],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Homestake Road Crag:
5.9   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
5.10a/b   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Don't Drag the Dog   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Night and Day   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
5.11a   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Wolfman Shuffle   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Neon Noodle   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
5.11d (aka Dude I think I Lost My Wallet?)   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Psychic Bomber?   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Browse More Classics in Homestake Road Crag

Featured Route For Homestake Road Crag
Neon Noodle.

Neon Noodle 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CO : Eagle/Vail/Minturn/Red Clif... : Homestake Road Crag
This is the leftmost route on the main face of the cliff.It starts down on easy climbing and then moves into a right-angling, thin seam and crimp sequence. Pumpy!! Finish on the direct blank looking face. The techy, awesome sequence through the finish will leave you wanting more!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Homestake Road Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Early Homestake Climbing Guide, paper.
BETA PHOTO: Early Homestake Climbing Guide, paper.
Yaeger gettin' after it.
Yaeger gettin' after it.
View of the Homestake Cliff from the parking on the road.
View of the Homestake Cliff from the parking on th...
Fun boulder just east of the Homestake cliff in the camping area.
Fun boulder just east of the Homestake cliff in th...
Showing the middle routes of the Homestake Wall.
Showing the middle routes of the Homestake Wall.
Here is that 11c? on the right side of the wall. It's no 12a like we were told.
Here is that 11c? on the right side of the wall. I...
Comments on Homestake Road Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 20, 2012
By T.Dailey
From: Avon
Jul 11, 2009

Anyone need a partner in Eagle County? I'd love to get on this crag, but I have no one to climb with.

By CA3
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 26, 2010

5.10a/b has a tough midsection move that warrants a higher rating.
5.10b is fantastic (second from right).
5.11a is a great route, watch out for chossy boulder before last bolt.

By mike argueso
Sep 18, 2010

Homespank has nothing to do with this crag. The REAL Homespank is a few miles down the road and blows this place away!

By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Sep 28, 2010

Fun wall and routes, can't beat the approach and beautiful nearby camping. There are some other walls to the east near the camping that could see a few lines if someone is willing.

Mike, if Homespank is truly another area, please post up some information.

By Owen Darrow
From: Garmisch,
Oct 16, 2010

This is a pretty fun place, but Mike has me feeling a bit confused. I've never heard of Homespank, but this makes me want to take a look... anyone else checked this out?

By Ryan Byrn
Oct 20, 2010

Sounds like there is another area to Homestake. I will do some looking next time I'm around.

I'm willing to check this out with anyone....

Here is what I believe Homestake Crag to be from left to right:

Neon Noodle
Wolfman Shuffle
Transmagnifier
Three's a Charm
Night and Day
Physic Bomber
Don't Drag the Dog
Gomer Alert

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Oct 20, 2010

From what I know, Homespank is supposed to be further up the Homestake Road in the vicinity of a big switchback. There's only one big switchback on Homestake Road a short distance before the reservoir. There are reported to be about 50 routes there.

By KDog
Jun 11, 2012

Maybe it's because I'm completely out of climbing shape (!), but everything I got on at this wall felt pretty stiff for the grade. But who knows, maybe I wasn't what I thought I was on! Reminded me a lot of some walls in Boulder Canyon. Cool little spot if you're in the area, gets nice afternoon shade too.

By Rob Culbertson
Jul 1, 2012

Since the "locals" have been such prix about revealing Homespank, here's how to find it. It's about 8 miles on up the road. Just before [about 200 yards before] - the road start climbing left into the switchback you'll usually see several cars parked along the flat. This is where you'll eventually park. However, continue on up the road, and upon exiting the righthand switchback you'll be on a shelf road. In less than a mile you'll come around a left hand turn and see the Homestake Dam for the first time. STOP, you've gone 100ft to far. Back down to the pullout just before that curve and get out. Looking across the valley - mostly North you can now see the Homespank cliffs. You can see anyone over there if you have binoculars. However, since you're here, there's a cliffline immediatelyl uphill from you. walk down the road about 25yards and enter the woods [uphill] immediately right of the huge boulder. There's kind of a path, but follow the developing cliffline and in about 50-60yds you'll come to the first two routes. Another 100ft past these there are four really nice bolted routes. The first one on the black arete seemed 11ish, the next one - with the small roof - very fun - probably 9+ or 10a, then two more 11ish ones up the bright orange lichens. Bring mosquito repellent!!!!!

By vitruvian112358
Jul 25, 2012

You're right, Rob. I don't know why the locals are so territorial about this place, everyone and their mom knows about it. It was way too packed with people when I went. It was early, too. Most places don't get like that til 8 or so. It reminded me of Clear Creek on a Saturday afternoon. I was even up there during the US 24 closer due to the sinkhole. However, the directions are simple: from Minturn, go south. After crossing the large green bridge in Redcliff on US 24, continue 3 miles or so until you reach Homestake Rd. on your right. Follow Homestake Rd. and you will cross Homestake Creek after 1/2 mile or so. Go another 1/4 mile, and the crag can easily be seen on the right.

By Kristoffer Schmarr
From: 2nd Cornfield
Aug 20, 2012

Thanks for the effort on Homespank directions everybody :P If this is in fact the big wall that runs for a 1/4 mile uphill above the gigantic talus field, then comers beware: The approach trail is several hundred yards down the road from where the "flat parking" is described (there are a couple 1-2 car pullouts in the vicinity) and it's nearly impossible to find if you don't know what you're looking for. The trail is difficult to follow through the talus and is completely unmarked. The rock at the cliff (except potentially the very highest section) is loose, dirty, and 'sportily' bolted. The rock quality, hike, and 8 miles of driving on a gravel, washboard road make this a no-go for anyone seeking a good time. If that's not the crag, then will someone PLEASE post a helpful description of the approach and perhaps submit some route info for it?!?!?