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Homemade self arrest tool for snowfield crossing

Original Post
Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
Mini Snowfield Ice Axe

I've used a nut tool before crossing steep snowfields and thought I might do better. This weighs 3 oz - if conditions warrant it, I'll use it instead of my nut tool this year. Made by a good climbing friend.
Beean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

If you're going to use a nut tool, why not use a rock? I'm sure they have similar self arresting capabilities.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
Beean wrote:If you're going to use a nut tool, why not use a rock? I'm sure they have similar self arresting capabilities.
I used a nut tool 30 years ago - I just made this sort of mini ice axe up to use this year. If you don't like it that's fine but I think it will work better than a rock :).
Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,191

It looks like a great idea to me.

Another would be a nut tool + separate handle made to be quickly snapped together for the mini ice axe, but the handle part could also be used as a pick-guard when not in use (e.g., in one's pack).

Brian C. · · Longmont, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 1,100

You should make it shaped like a dick and then start a kickstarter campaign.

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
Brian C. wrote:You should make it shaped like a dick and then start a kickstarter campaign.
If I can't pay my own way - I simply won't go.
Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55
Jon Nelson wrote:It looks like a great idea to me. Another would be a nut tool + separate handle made to be quickly snapped together for the mini ice axe, but the handle part could also be used as a pick-guard when not in use (e.g., in one's pack).
A nice idea but beyond my skill level to turn out in my garage :)
jktinst · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

I can imagine that this should work somewhat better than a nut tool but never having tried self-arresting with a nut tool, I have a hard time picturing using either for self-arrest. The classic technique involves driving the pick into the snow with a combination of pressing the adze with the shoulder and levering the shaft. A firm grip on the head and the shaft is critical to be able to keep the pick pointing straight. Practicing self-arrest on hard-packed snow after intentionally picking up speed in a variety of starting positions, there's been times when coming to full arrest took driving that pick with all the strength I could muster, achieving a penetration of barely a couple of inches into the snow by the time I stopped, leaving a shallow 15-20 m-long gouge behind me on the slope. I have a hard time imagining doing anything remotely similar with a nut tool or with your tool. Are you basically hoping to be able to stab the slope with the tool and stop yourself before you pick up any speed at all?

Joshua Hunt · · clinton, ut · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Just do it like bear grylls with a broken trekking pole

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67
C Miller wrote:A securely attached Spectre, or your own facsimilie, to a staff or trekking pole would be ideal; double up for greater security.
.... Whippet

Chris, that thing is likely not going to do much for you. There's not much to hold onto, so it will probably just get ripped out of your hands in an uncontrolled slide.
davegreg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 5
Mike Marmar wrote: .... Whippet Chris, that thing is likely not going to do much for you. There's not much to hold onto, so it will probably just get ripped out of your hands in an uncontrolled slide.
Totally agree. You had better do a experiment before using it.In any case, safety is a top priority.
rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

My guess is that the only times that will work, you could have stopped without it by digging in your toes and clawing with your fingers. Which means it constitutes a dangerous invitation to venture onto ground where it will do you absolutely no good. An axe (or Whippet) self-arrest benefits from the leverage of full bodyweight on the shaft and a hand low on the shaft that can exert considerable torque. A little hand spike will either do nothing of significance or will be ripped out of your hand.

Nate KSD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 20

I think the problem with it is that it doesn't have a handle so you can only apply so much force to dig it in.

I think this is why they train with ice axes to arrest a slide on high altitude hikes. You can really dig the pointy bit in deep with a good wack.

Matt Stroebel · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 115

YER GONNA DIE.

(I had to, it's MP tradition)

Adan Clinton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0

Sounds like you have an idea ,anyway ,test it before using it .

bobbin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Maybe the issue here is "self-arrest" vs "self-belay." I could see using a spike as a plunger to get a little extra hand hold while crossing a snowfield. I can't see it working to arrest a slide once you start moving, but the idea of self-belay is AFAIK to not start sliding in the first place.

I made a piece of aluminum angle that could be clamped onto a hiking pole to create a sort of pick for this hand hold purpose, but there was no question: it wouldn't be useful for self-arrest. I wound up not having to use it anyway.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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