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Homebase (aka. Bring your Monkey Along)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 9
votes
Routes in Devil's Den
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Arch, The T C2 |
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Bates Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Book O' Fools TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Bowltender to the B Team T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crossroads T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Crucible, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Curiosity S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Devil's in the Details T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Dubuko T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Easier Said Than Done T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Edge, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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El Rayo X T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Exorcist T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Friend of the Devil T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Heat Wave T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Homebase (aka. Bring your Monkey Along) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Immaculate Constriction, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Lycra Sanction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Maximum Heat T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oh God! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Oh Hell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pretty Flake, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Speckman's (Originally named Speckman's First Aid Climb) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Squeeze Play T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Strong John's Shelf S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Sympathy for the Devil T,TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Paul Boisssonneault, 1980's |
| Page Views: | 2,227 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy A on Jun 19, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See
Details
Description
Climb the vertical crack to the left of Heat Wave. There are 2 cruxes. Getting off the ground and an upper crux to reach a welcomed jug. The gear on the upper section could take over your holds making the moves quite tough so you may want to plan accordingly.
A left variation is also an option. Exit the left flake near the top of the crack. Be sure to extend your last piece out as you will be moving back right. Surprisingly good with interesting movement. It felt about the same grade but could be pushing .11. FA - Unknown.
Location
Protection
Standard Rack to #4 will get you to the top. A #2 for the final 20' will make the top out to the tree plenty safe.
After you exit the crack, climb up and left on some common Pawtuckaway slab and a usual pine needle filled crack to a tree anchor. A single 60m rope will get you to the ground from the tree. A 70m is needed if you pass the tree to the bolt anchor at the top of the cliff.
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