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 ADVANCED
Sunset Wall
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AC-DC T 
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Home Run 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, 1981
Season: Autumn, when not closed or snowed in
Page Views: 103
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 5, 2007

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  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Should I Lead It?
    The answer was "Yes," but it was we re-cleaned it in 1997 while climbing on TR, where some loose flakes could be removed from the wall without risking severe consequences. The climb cleaned up surprisingly nicely, and with some small cams, protects OK. Not like overhead gear, but it is just below the feet at the crux sequence.

    Start off on a short slab and climb up and left to reach the base of the flakes and seams. Place some gear and pull up and right into the seams. Funky right-hand sidepulls and underclings make a large reach to a jug (the first of 2) possible, whereupon you can place a small cam and a few so-so nuts, them make another move out from under a small roof into a good left-facing corner. This is a little exciting, but not dangerous if you placed good gear, which is certainly available.

    Location 

    Perhaps below the center of the massive roof at the mid-height of the wall, there are a set of older climbs, each of which follows a right leaning crack system past 2 pins. The left of these is left of a left-facing corner to the left of a large bulge ('2 Pins Left') and the Right follows a set of parallel cracks just right of the right side of the same bulge ('2 Pins Right'). Between is a right-leaning and quite overhanging system of flakes and seams, known as 'S.I.L.I. ?'

    Protection 

    A standard light rack the really should include small cams. I used the 2 smallest Aliens just before the crux, upon which, they were just below my feet.


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    By Jason Haas
    Jul 29, 2008

    This route is called Home Run. FA: David Kozak, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane 1981.