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Holy Smoke 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Aidan Maguire, 2000
Page Views: 1,008
Submitted By: snowhazed on Oct 25, 2008

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Description 

Per ST- "Sustained, balancy, and powerful". Unique and improbable movement. 5.11 climbing at third bolt. Crux move at fourth bolt requires dynamic movement to a gaston finger lock in horizontal roof crack. 5.10 to the chains.

Location 

Starts off big shelf to the left of Steppin' Stone. Goes through obvious bulge and roof combo. Finishes on same anchor as Steppin' Stone.

Protection 

Trad pro .6 to 1.5" plus 6 bolts. Can clip first bolt by going high on starting shelf - then can continue from there of step back down to start climbing directly beneath the bolt.


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By Aidan Maguire
Oct 22, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Route is rated 11d and depends a bit on reach at crux. Option gear is not optional unless very bold and up to 1.5 inch
By Vlad S
Feb 2, 2015
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The dyno to a gaston fingerlock move was much harder than 5.11 for me as an average height person. There are no feet for that move as well, so being stronger wouldn't even help much. It's all about reach. The climbing up to that point is already in the 5.11+ range. Cool route! I'll try it again once I grow a few inches.
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