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Holy Roller 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall through spring
Page Views: 1,054
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Apr 23, 2010

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Katie near the top of the route. Wade Forrest pho...


Holy Roller offers some awesome positioning, bouldery crux moves, and demands an attention to detail when it comes to your feet. It's also a good training route for other power endurance projects.

Second route right of Solitaire. The first section delivers some technical climbing in between bigger holds and checks in around 5.9 or so.

The second section is steep, solid, and bouldery! From the break, move up and right over the bulge passing good hand holds, and a dearth of footholds. Move up to a very standout solution pocket up and left of streak. From there move slightly right again into the streak, crimps, and a full body toss to a giant chicken head! The crux moves are really good! Finish up with some large steep moves, and then pass a giant hueco, that, if need be, you could sit in, take a rest and enjoy the view.

Closely bolted due to the ledge below the bulge. Hanging draws is a chore, making onsights difficult. Once the draws are hanging though, and you know where the holds are, well, it makes a world of difference for redpoint burns.


Starts just left of two Oak trees. Second route right of Solitaire.


Bolts, Fixed biner anchors

Photos of Holy Roller Slideshow Add Photo
Dean on Holy Roller.
Dean on Holy Roller.
Dean sticking the crux throw on Holy Roller 5.12, ...
Dean sticking the crux throw on Holy Roller 5.12, ...
A bad angle of Colin Cox on Holy Roller.  This sec...
A bad angle of Colin Cox on Holy Roller. This sec...
Tamara Hastie rolling out the roof.  Wade Forrest ...
Tamara Hastie rolling out the roof. Wade Forrest ...

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By Tamara Hastie
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Feb 6, 2012

Thanks for the most excellent of pitches...Stoked I was able to send this one in three goes (crazy!) :) Wade and JJ- you rock it out!! Five Stars for sure- and no less!!
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