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Routes in Main Wall
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Blood of Brahm, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Circus Midget S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flying Guillotine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Holy Crap T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Original Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Perro De La Guerra S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Perro Del Amore S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Pyramid, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ticked Off. S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Turning Point S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Yahoo Predator S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | DE etc? |
| Page Views: | 6,201 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Brian in SLC on Sep 2, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
A fun, plumb bob of a route which ascends a neat line up improbable steepness.
Climb lower angle blocky and kind of tricky slab and shallow cracks to first bolt below roof with crack splitting face above. Climb up through roof, staying to the right of the prow to left. Step left where convenient (joining Flying Guillotine), and, traverse up the bolt protected face on reachy, spaced out jugs on the steep wall.
Climb up through shallow roof (easier than it looks!) and either step left to finish on the open cold shut anchor (top of Perro De La Guerra), or, sling that anchor long and step right to the low angle layback/undercling and follow that to a shallow alcove corner crack.
Clip the last bolt then step up and hit the semi flared finger crack to the chains.
Variations that might be useful: clip first bolt, then step up right and clip the next two bolts on the adjacent route to the right, Circus Midget. Then, step back left and finish as per the above.
Holy Crap is a short variation of Flying Guillotine by going Rt to the 12c anchor thus avoiding the crux of Flying G. Making it about 5.9.
Climb lower angle blocky and kind of tricky slab and shallow cracks to first bolt below roof with crack splitting face above. Climb up through roof, staying to the right of the prow to left. Step left where convenient (joining Flying Guillotine), and, traverse up the bolt protected face on reachy, spaced out jugs on the steep wall.
Climb up through shallow roof (easier than it looks!) and either step left to finish on the open cold shut anchor (top of Perro De La Guerra), or, sling that anchor long and step right to the low angle layback/undercling and follow that to a shallow alcove corner crack.
Clip the last bolt then step up and hit the semi flared finger crack to the chains.
Variations that might be useful: clip first bolt, then step up right and clip the next two bolts on the adjacent route to the right, Circus Midget. Then, step back left and finish as per the above.
Holy Crap is a short variation of Flying Guillotine by going Rt to the 12c anchor thus avoiding the crux of Flying G. Making it about 5.9.
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