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 ADVANCED
Bitty Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A's Jax T 
Bitty Buttress T 
Buzz, The S 
Electricity T,S 
Hand is Quicker than the Eye, The T,S 
Holy Ascension T,TR 
Jaguary T 
Jam Left T 
Jitters, The S 
Lorax, The S 
Mirage (aka Right Crack) T 
Moby Dike S 
Peach Monkey S 
Peapod T 
Return To Sender S 
Reveille T,S 
Rise and Shine S 
South T 
Spins, The T,S 
Treetop Landing T 
Welcome Home S 

Holy Ascension 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c C1-2

   
Type:  Trad, TR, Aid, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c C1-2 [details]
FA: Tim Hudgel 1985. FFA: John Arron 1987 (TR)
Page Views: 693
Submitted By: Dmitriy Zinchenko on May 19, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Start of Holy Ascension. The two bolts to the righ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Holy Ascension would likely deserve the original A4 rating if climbed with all pins, beaks, and heads but with the advent of modern technology the grade is significantly tamer.

Look for a thin crack a few feet to the right of Peapod and to the left of Jaguary. This route opens with some thin and flaring C2 moves and meets up with the upper bolt of Jagged Ascension (~5.12). From there, plug in small cams and stoppers on C1 as the angles decreases and cracks get wider. The last 20-40 feet is best free climbed and doesn't get harder than 5.7 with good protection.

If free climbing, you'll find everything above the aforementioned bolt a cake walk compared to the poorly protected crux below which is apparently 5.13a.

Downclimb the class 4 ramp on climber's left or set up a rap on two bolts just above Razor Hein Stick (also, to your left). Alternatively, scramble up class 4 ramps and finish with the last pitches of A's Jax (8), Zero Tolerance (11b), and Moon Doggie (11b).

Given that the crux lies in your first three placements, you may consider a bouldering pad and spotter since you're guaranteed a deck fall if any piece these pieces blow.

Protection 

Micro stoppers and RPs mandatory for the start with offsets helpful. Maybe bring the ballnuts if you got 'em. One set small cams and nuts for the C1 section and Camalots #1, 2, and 3 for the free climbing finish (doubles, especially of #2s can be useful but not necessary).

For the TR anchor, bring long slings and/or some small to medium pieces of pro.


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