Forearm Direct aka The Hollow Head Crew. This line starts 15' to climbers right of the Forearm Frenzy flake on some cool slopers and crimps and blasts up to a huge hanging jug in the middle of the wall. Finish straight up on Forearm Frenzy or the various Forearm finishes. This climb is very popular and the stronger locals will often "warm-up" on it in their Guide Tennies.
Z crack, Forearm Frenzy Wall.
Glue-ins and then gear.
Photos of Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct Slideshow
By John Biehn From: Madison, CT Jun 15, 2011 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+25E5 6a X
This was always known as a direct variation to Forearm Frenzy 5.12-'ish... When was the FA? Was it done on TR? I redpointed this on TR in the spring of 2000- I'm sure it had been climbed before that....
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jul 3, 2011
The route is about 25+ years old and named for the crew of knuckleheads who came bounding through while Whitey (John MacLean) and I were working on the problem. The leader, who looked like he spent all day benchpressing said "We're climbers too. We don't use ropes though" (Think Stallone voice, and no, they weren't boulderers)
By John Biehn From: Madison, CT Sep 16, 2011 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+25E5 6a X
Haha.. that is awesome! Its good to know more of the history about this place. Do you know who drew the old topo for this place? I remember having some handed down drawings of this place in '99 or earlier....