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Hollow Flake 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,443
Submitted By: Rog on Aug 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (65)
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Finishing moves on Hollow Flake.

Description 

Follow directions to the main rock & hike up the short, steep obvious trail. It is maybe 75' to the right of The Staircase. This route is very obvious - sorry I'm not more specific (look at attached picture). This is a good climb to do while waiting for folks to clear off The Staircase.

It is one pitch (80' or so) with a 2 bolt anchor / rap station. The start is a bit awkward, and then a combo of lieback, stemming, and face moves brings you to the top. There are not as many finger / hand jams as you'd think.

It is very fun and a bit thoughtful for the grade - I plugged way more gear than I had anticipated.

There is a harder sport climb on the face of this 'hollow flake' that can easily be TR'd from the anchors....

Protection 

Small - medium gear? I've got a bad memory.


Photos of Hollow Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Plugging pro on Hollow Flake.
Plugging pro on Hollow Flake.
Struggling with a stuborn stoppper near the top of...
Struggling with a stuborn stoppper near the top of...
Another great climb on Arch Rock.
Another great climb on Arch Rock.
Brenda takes a photo break on Hollow Flake.
Brenda takes a photo break on Hollow Flake.
Looking down the dihedral.
Looking down the dihedral.
Hollow Flake. Great places for cams, but the climi...
Hollow Flake. Great places for cams, but the climi...

Comments on Hollow Flake Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2011
By ClimbandMine
Jan 23, 2002

Gear to 2". Definitely a fun little dihedral, with mostly easy face moves.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 22, 2002

The direct start to this is killer! Unprotected 5.7 lieback/undercling left, or 5.7 OW to the right! Both take good gear at the top of the OW. Use a long draw or sling to go left into the corner. Once in the corner, that's where the fun begins.
By Jim McGuire
Sep 15, 2003

IMHO a 3 star route. A superb, clean, flake-crack and dihedral that is mostly face climbing. Grab a handfull of stoppers and prepare to have fun. Only one little move near the top of the dihedral prompts some contemplation. Starting off the angling flake to the left is much easier than the direct starts mentioned above but every bit as good.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 5, 2003

Anyone have more information on the face climb that ascends the arete right of the flake? Name? Grade? Any good? Partner and I would like to climb it - it is a steep, attention-getting line on a rock that doesn't abound in steep lines. How is the next pitch that pulls up and over the roof from the top of hollow flake?
By Kris Carter
Mar 25, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great climb - maybe its just that I'm a wuss, but this sure seemed like 5.7 or possibly more to me. About 3/4 of the way up there is a nut that didn't want to come home with us - it is hard to see, but the #@#%$ thing is in there a few inches into the crack. Maybe I just did the "direct" start, but at more than one place the route had me doing some "contemplating". Very worth doing if you are in 11mile.
By Larry Shaw
May 29, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The 5.6 hollow flake starts to the left on the right angling flake 5.3, then enters the dihedral at it's half way point. The two direct starts are 5.7 and much funner. The bolted route on the arete is the first pitch to the Sprout route 5.11b. This is a very fun route with great moves. I think the first pitch is around .10c and the harder moves are at the top. You can also go right near the end and tackle the double cracks .10a?? They are really fun.
By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 23, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Great route, I roped-soloed this today. It takes more stoppers than cams. I used #4-#l3 in stoppers, cams I used from blue alien to #3 in wild country sizes. This is a great route for learning to lead. As is the Stair-case. There are excellent stances for placing gear. Hexes are also good pieces to have. It get's a little thin in the upper part of the climb. But, it's mostly easy climbing. Lot's of fun!!
By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 10, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

We did the 2nd pitch that's right off the belay ledge of Hollow Flake.
The pitch is at least 5.10c. Very nice pitch, 8-10 bolts, plus 2 for the anchors (can't remember). Very deceiving route, looks much easier from the belay ledge. But all the bolts are in the right spots.
By Buff Johnson
Nov 9, 2006

Here's another contrived variant to try, come in from left to right on those thin seams, small nuts & RPs. There's a couple of key finger locks.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 22, 2007

This crack is superior to Mobey Grape. It's less slabby, sharper, and doesn't have any grass growing in it.
By Joey Jimenez
From: Colorado Springs
Sep 8, 2008

Either the (5.3 flake) or the direct (5.6+ OW) make for a fun start. I think we'd all agree that the dihedral is where the real fun begins. Great route, simple, fun, enjoy. Don't pull your rope without giving the face route a go on TR. As stated, to the ledge is P1 (10c) of the Sprout Route 11b. For some added fun, stay off the arete all the way to the belay ledge and I'd give the pitch an honest .11+ (IMO). Straight friction and mini crimps, with a nice mantle about half-way up. Will be back for the lead soon.
By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 26, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this route today with my wife. Did the OW direct start as a layback. This is a fantastic climb and would be worth 4 stars if only it were longer!
By Mario Chiarolanzio
Aug 16, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

My first all trad route. It was pretty east placement for me after I got passed the start. I was a little nervous being a little run out but has big hold and good hand jams.
By 2-wheel
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 3, 2011

I used C4s from 1 to 3, a small nut or two, and a medium tricam. The crux is near the top, of the crack. The last few moves are on large blocks, pretty easy. One of those blocks felt a little wobbly, so be careful.
This route was a great way to re-introduce a friend of mine--who frequents rock gyms--to outdoor climbing.