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 ADVANCED
Monitor and Merrimac Buttes
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Hollis Route T 
Hypercrack on the Anchor Chain T 
Keel Hauling T 
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Hollis Route 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 120', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b A1 [details]
FA: Jason Keith and Hollis McCord
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jun 1, 2008

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Description 

This route is a good way to the summit of the Monitor. You top out of the 5th class at the opposite end of the butte, but the hike across the summit is really cool. Don't fall into a pothole... you might never get out. Rap chains now exist at the top of this.

FInd the corner at the far eastern end of the butte. The corner faces north so you can climb it in the afternoon on a hot day. Climb to a ledge, then out a roof on finger size pieces. The rock is a little soft at the start as water has run down the inside of the crack. Eventually it turns to hands, then wider. ITs about 100 feet to the anchor. AN easy 4th calss slab section then puts you on the summit ridge of the butte.

This is very solid rock for entrada. I think the starter moves would go free at 5.12+. The rest is 5.10+.

Location 

The very east end of Monitor Butte in a north facing corner.

Protection 

In friends take triples of .75 and 1, then doubles from there to #5. An extra 3.5 or 4 would be nice and if you don't like OW bring a couple of #6's. You'll need slings for the start. The rap might be doable with a seventy... but I doubt it. Take 2X60.


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By rob pizem
Apr 20, 2010

I freed the Hollis route this spring. It was cold, sandy, crumbly and fun.
Gear is from fingers to a number 5.
Out the cave roof start one or two finger pieces to a .5 and a .75 or two into tight hands and then hands to the wide stuff.
Great way to ascend the wall to see the potholes on top!
1 70 meter was all that was needed to rap off the new anchors/chains on top, but you could probably easily use a 60 meter cord.
5.12+ ffa rob pizem 2010
Props to the first ascensionist's for finding another cool pitch in the shade in the desert!
By david goldstein
May 7, 2015

In case you're wondering, the post-roof crux is about 30' of OW from #4 to #6 Camalot width, part of which seems overhanging.

Unless the leader back cleaned most of the gear in and below the roof, it would be hard to do this in one pitch due to rope drag and the rope running over/through the pieces in the roof.

The rap anchors are about 31 meters off the deck i.e. rapping with a single 60 might or might not work depending on how long your 60 meter rope is.

The summit is at the opposite end of the butte and is mostly an easy walk except for the 15' high summit knob itself which starts with an exposed, unprotected 5.6ish mantel on which most people would want to be belayed -- best not to leave your rope back at the anchors.
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